PLANTS ARE TOUGHER THAN YOU THINK

Plants have a remarkable ability to survive. Novice gardeners manage to grow healthy plants and vegetables as long as the plants are not pushed in the ground upside down with the roots sticking in the air. Bulbs put upside down in the ground will right themselves so the tips grow up and the roots go down. We can see bulbs appearing at this time of the year. I spotted my first snowdrop in Drung last week. Plants also have the knack of surviving even if they have been totally buried for a while. This can be used to our advantage when it comes to the time we would like to increase or improve the look of our stock. When some bushy plants get leggy they can be either dug up and replanted in a deeper hole or if this isn’t convenient, earth can be pushed around the bare stems of the plant leaving the fresh new growth above ground

Good specimens to try this out are heathers, azaleas, berberis, box and Gaultheria. This is a very effective way to propagate new plants as well. Burying a stem blanches it and these shoots root much easier. Many plants have embryonic roots in their bark. Burying stimulates their growth, which produces off shoots. These can be cut off when the roots have developed. It doesn’t have to be woody plants either. Try burying your bedding plants when you buy them. Leave the tips of the plant above ground and in the space of a few weeks you will have loads of little bedding baby plant babies.

Horticultural.

MARCH LAWN

As the weather warms up this month, the organic matter in the lawn resumes its natural decomposition. This releases natural fertilisers. There are a lot of factors that take nutrients away from the grass. The winter rain depletes this natural source of food and so does collecting the grass clippings every time the lawn is cut. Some of us who like a green lawn though will now be ready to add a lawn fertiliser or a mix of fertiliser and weedkiller. This is fine if you enjoy getting the mower out twice a week to cut the heavy growth. Wild flower areas on the other hand need not be fed. The idea of these is to make them nutrient poor. This condition favours wild flowers in their struggle to fight off the grasses. Lawn weedkillers should not be used on wildflower lawns, as this will kill all of the wild flowers that would grow in the lawn.

Horticultural.

LOVE APPLE

Ian
Could you tell me the best time to start growing tomatoes indoors please? Thanks D.M Buncrana.

Reply
If you had a heated greenhouse then the seed could have been sown as early as late December. These would have given you a June crop. Most of us however will plant the seeds in early March for planting out in April. The first fruit will be ready for picking in July. Tomatoes reached Ireland about 400 years ago. And like a lot of things, were regarded with extreme suspicion when first seen.

They were grown as ornamental oddities rather that for food. The old name of Love Apple suggests that they were a forbidden fruit and there was some thing unwholesome and unpleasant about the plant and a connection with the devil. The Latin name is lycopersicon, which means wolf- peach and refers to the fact that the fruit was considered to be inferior to the peach as a fruit, which doesn’t seem to be a very fair comparison! If you’re anything like me though, you would be lost without the tomato for cooking.

Horticultural.

BAY LAUREL

BAY LAUREL.

The bay laurel (Laurus noblis) is both a decorative tree for the garden and a useful kitchen herb, especially for soups, tomato and fish dishes. It can be grown in the garden, or in a large pot on the patio. They can be left to grow or clipped to produce a tree on a short stem, in shapes like a lollipop, spiral or pyramid. The botanical and Latin name for laurel is Laurus. It is native of the Mediterranean area, growing in valleys with a reliable water supply. The leaves were used as triumphal garlands in ancient Rome, giving rise to the word” Laureate” which is still used as in Nobel laureate. The second part of the name “noblis” means noble or excellent. And this plant certainly is, with the handsome leaf shape, scented and flavoured, and it has good flowers too. It is worth noting that there are very few variants with this plant. There is one form called “Augustifolia” which means “narrow leaved” and there is “crispa” which means wavy, as the leaves have wavy edges. Then there is a golden leaved form called “aurea”. The plain type is the most widely grown one though and is a great plant to have in any garden.

CRACKED POT

Ian

I have a shapeless bay tree in a pot that was cracked by the frost. I am considering planting it out to grow as a tree. When should I plant it in the garden and in what position? Thanks BA Malin

Reply
Bay trees are pretty hardy, but do get damaged by winter frosts and wind. . If the root ball of your tree is intact then you could plant it out now. The trees will flourish in either a sunny or shady spot. It is more important to put it in a sheltered area that is not too wet but is protected by other shrubs, trees or fences to keep the cold winds off of the leaves, as you will want them to look good for cooking.

Allow a few metres of space for it to establish. It will need watering in when planted, even at this time of the year. Then keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn’t dry out over the spring and summer. Small trees usually do not require staking if they are planted well. The rocking motion of the upper part of the plant seems to encourage root development underground. If you have light soil and excessive movement put a stake in and secure the tree with a proper tree tie (available from all good hardware shops and garden centres). Loosen it as the girth of the trunk grows in the year. Remove any damaged stems and leaves in spring and in summer you can trim the tree to get the shape back. If the pot was attractive you could use that as a feature in a border. Lay it on its side to look like it is half buried and then decorate it with some colourful bedding plants

Horticultural.

MARCH GENERAL CARE IN THE GARDEN

Let’s have a look at some things we can be getting on with in the garden this month.

Order bedding plants
Order baby fuchsias, geraniums, marguerites and other young plug plants from mail-order suppliers. It's also a good time to order summer-flowering bulbs, such as dahlia, gladioli and eucomis.

Pruning shrubs
Prune away one or perhaps two flowering shoots from large mahonias each year, after flowering. This will encourage a succession of new replacement shoots to grow up from the base. Old, leggy shoots can be cut right down to ground level or you can stagger the length of stems to create a more interesting shape. The stems of dogwoods, willows, hardy fuchsias and ceratostigma should also be pruned back hard this month to encourage fresh, brightly coloured new growth. Cut down tall stems on Buddleia davidii to emerging shoots lower down the plant, shaping the shrub to control its size.

Divide perennials
Lift and divide congested clumps of perennials or plant new ones. People gardening on light soils may have completed this task last autumn, but those of us on heavy clay soils benefit from waiting until spring when conditions are warmer and drier.

Pruning clematis
Summer-flowering clematis varieties that blossom on the current season's growth, such as Clematis 'Etoile Violette', need to have last year's growth pruned out now. Cut any tangled old stems down to a pair of new shoots near ground level as soon as possible

Divide snowdrops
Lift and divide any congested snowdrops after flowering but while still in leaf. Carefully tease the clumps apart and replant the bulbs at the same depth they were before.

Fertilising
Sprinkle general-purpose organic fertiliser along the base of hedges and around trees and shrubs, followed by a generous mulch of rotted compost.

Planting begonia tubers
Plant tubers now in trays of moist compost, barely covering the top. Study the tubers carefully before planting and you will notice that they are convex on one side and concave on the other. The concave side should be uppermost in the pot. Keep them in a warm, bright position, watering when the compost dries out. Pot each one up individually when shoots are 5cm to 7.5cm (2in to 3in) long.

Trim heather
Trim winter-flowering heathers with shears to remove flower-heads and to shape the plants. Take care to remove only the blooms, never cutting back into old wood.

GENERAL CARE

Paths and patios
Use a pressure washer or cleaner to clean paths, steps, paving and patios.

Tools
Check that mowers and garden machinery are in good working order and ready for the season ahead

Create bowl arrangementsBrighten up your home with a seasonal bowl arrangement. Try including such plants as ferns, hypoestes, kalanchoes, ivies or spider plants, and individual plants can be replaced when needed. Alternatively, look out for air plants. These plants collect moisture from the air and do not need soil. When planted around an ornament they make a bold statement

Environmental.

MARCH IS NETTLE TIME!

Photo: A home grown onion goes well with nettle soup.

Its nettle time again! I know I mention this every year, but nettles really signify the start of the spring growth. For wildlife and a foliar feed in the garden, nettles prove to be invaluable although they can be a bit of a nuisance as they are very vigorous and stingy. Why not try getting your own back then and make a fabulous nettle soup out of the new growth. I usually just make it with water but I got hold of a new recipe that looks to be of interest, you could substitute the Soya milk for double cream if you wanted!

NETTLE SOUP
Don't worry - they don't sting when cooked! Nettles are very nutrient rich and of course - free! Don't gather them beside a busy road where they will have been contaminated by traffic fumes. If you keep cutting them from springtime you get a regular supply of fresh leaves, though they can get a bit insect infested during the summer!

Ingredients:
2 tablespoons of vegetable margarine or oil
2 tablespoons of white flour
1 onion, roughly chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped (optional)
Freshly picked and washed young nettles (several good handfuls - picked with gloves and caution!)
2 cups soya milk.
1 cup water or stock
salt and pepper to taste

Fry the onion and garlic in the oil or margarine for a few minutes then stir in the nettles (no need to chop or remove stalks) until they soften. Stir in the flour and gradually add the soya milk and water or stock, stirring all the time. Add seasonings and liquidise. Delicious.



Environmental., Horticultural.

CLEAN BEANS

I’m pleased to see that our local supermarket is stocking food from other European countries. They have some baked beans from Poland in and I was surprised to see that Persil was in the list of ingredients. We usually think of Persil as something that gets our clothes white and not a food ingredient. Don’t despair though, Persil is the French word for parsley!

Environmental.

DOGGY DO'S

Ian
I have two dogs. Is it safe for me to throw their poo into the compost bin? Thanks HB Derry

Reply
Some people throw all of their toilet waste into the compost! Years ago everything went into the cottage garden. Some people will find that vegetables grown in dog mess are very unpalatable. I know a few people who put all of the dog waste into the compost; they say that it just needs leaving for at least six months to rot down thoroughly. If you feel that your bin doesn’t reach high temperatures in summer to speed the rotting process down then either get an attractive bin solely for the purpose and leave in for ages. Alternatively, throw the waste under hedges or shrubs, they will rot down in no time (or get eaten by slugs!). Have you thought about investing in a doggy toilet?

Environmental dog loo
Dog mess is a real hazard in the garden, especially if children are playing, and dog urine can have a terrible effect on a lawn. A dog loo could be the answer as it's a natural way to dispose of dog waste safely. A company called Armitage manufactures a circular green container that is dug into the garden with gravel and drainage beneath. A twist-lock lid keeps the waste safe from children and other pets. A small amount of bio activator must be added to the loo each week to break down the waste and when the unit is full simply flush it through with two buckets of clean water and the dissolved waste will drain away.

Horticultural,environmental.

MARCH IN THE GREENHOUSE

Photo: Bromleads like a bit of a wash.

IN THE GREENHOUSE

Lets have a look at jobs to do in the greenhouse this week. Don’t feel too left out if you don’t have a greenhouse as most of these jobs can be performed on the kitchen table and windowsill.

Sow tender plants
Seed sowing plans should now be in full swing to raise the summer's bedding plants and tender vegetable crops, such as peppers, cucumbers and aubergines. By keeping a diary of when all the different varieties should be sown, you will be able to ensure everything stays on schedule. Most of the bedding plants that need early sowing, such as busy lizzies, lobelias and petunias, will also require extra heat to encourage speedy germination, so you might consider investing in an electric propagator or do as I do and leave them until the weather has warmed up a bit, they will soon catch up.

Houseplant care
Pot on houseplants and ferns into slightly larger pots. Large-leaved plants, including rubber plants,bromeads and Swiss cheese plants, will benefit from a thorough clean. Wash off dust and grime with a proprietary leaf-shine product or with cotton wool soaked in milk and water.

Plant summer-flowering bulbs

In warm greenhouses, plant pots of summer-flowering bulbs and corms, such as begonias, sparaxis, Dutch iris, anemone, acidantiera and gladioli grandiflorus, which is a new purple variety. They are all easy to grow varieties and are in the shops now.

Damping off
Protect your trays of seedlings from damping off by watering them with Cheshunt compound or a copper fungicide solution. Keep your seedlings growing strongly in good light.

Dahlias
Plant dahlia tubers in trays of compost to encourage new shoots to grow. Any shoots that appear can be used as cuttings in trays of compost


Fuchsias
As conditions start to warm up during March, keep the compost just moist and mist over stems with a light spray of water. Dead stems can be pruned back hard. If you are not sure how far to prune, wait until you see signs of new shoots emerging near the base of the stems and prune back to just above these. Once they start to grow strongly, increase watering, feed weekly and pot up if required.

Horticultural.

COMMUNAL LAND ON ESTATES

There is a big dispute going on in Co. Kildare about communal land on housing estates being used for development. The argument has come about because of developers reapplying for planning permission on amenity open spaces left when estates were built. The worrying thing is that the council in Co. Meath actually granted permission to build on these spaces. They use the argument that the density of housing is increasing and the space is needed. This is a worrying trend. People buy houses specifically because green areas surround them and when it is taken away the quality of their surroundings is reduced as well as the value of the property. The council argue that the areas are just drinking dens and scrub land. It will be in everyone’s interest on new estates to know exactly whose names are on the deeds of the amenity areas around them. If it is seen to be the developers then maybe the residents need to get together and form a residents’ committee to transfer the deeds to. This will safeguard the areas on the estates for the future.

Environmental.

DRIVEWAY DILEMMA

Ian
I notice that you are compiling a list of eco-friendly contractors and suppliers. I was wondering if you had any ideas about materials that could be used for driveways that don’t contain concrete or asphalt

Reply
The list of eco suppliers is coming on great at the moment but if anyone still hasn’t been in touch, please do so.

The obvious material for driveways is stone or gravel. This can be a bit labour intensive, as the stuff tends to try to work its way into the garden or the drains eventually. There are a couple of ideas that are around that could be of interest.

Pervious concrete: This is concrete I know, but it is a loose mix with cement coarse aggregate and water. It contains no sand, which results in a porous open-cell structure that water passes through readily. The benefits of this is that water soaks through it and reduces the threat of flooding, especially in towns and cities that are being covered with concrete with nowhere for the water to go.

Recycled glass: This is ground glass compressed into a hard wearing surface; the idea can also accommodate china clay and ceramics. This material is hard wearing but it might not be tough enough for heavy traffic.

Recycled rubber: Presently made by Eco-flex, these recycled rubber mats are moulded into the classic interlocking "dogbone" shape. The tile is just under 2 cm thick and is designed for resurfacing applications. The tile has many potential applications such as driveways, pavements, patios and decks. They need a solid surface to adhere to though so they might be better used for resurfacing existing driveways.

Environmental.

PROTECTING HEDGEROWS

Dear Clean and Green

Recent builders of housing developments in towns around the peninsula have cut down large mature trees, much to the annoyance of the neighbouring residents. I would like to point out that doing this at this time of year is illegal. March 1st to September the 1st as this is the nesting season of birds in the hedgerows. Hedgerows everywhere are being cut down where you find new housing estate developments; basic wooden fences are replacing these. Some of the estates are named after trees, such as The Woods in Buncrana. You will be hard pressed to find a shrub let alone a tree on the estate, they were all chopped down when the houses were built! Regards E.M. Carndonagh

HOSTAS

Other plants that look lovely in summer are hostas. They love our wet soil and shady spots. Occasionally they get a bit large for their spot, if so, now is a great time to get dividing them up. You can cut the clumps or tease out small offsets and replant. Remember there are other creatures besides us that love the hosta so keep a beady eye out for the slugs and snails as the new growth pokes through the ground.

Horticultural.

CUTTING BACK ORNAMENTAL GRASSES

Ian

I have a large display of deciduous ornamental grasses. They are absolutely lovely but do tend to get a bit untidy at this time of year. Could you tell me how to tidy them up and to look after them please? SB Carn.


CUTTING BACK ORNAMENTAL GRASSES

Don’t despair. I personally like the unruly look of ornamental grasses in winter. I like the way that the bleached stems provide structure, movement, and shelter for wildlife in a season when many plants have died back completely, although this is not to everyone’s taste. The dense clumps that they form could start to rot if it is waterlogged for any length of time. They tend to do this around Inishowen as generally drainage is at its limits at this time of year. Grasses are just like any other herbaceous perennial in the way they are reduced in size.

DECIDUOUS GRASSES

Cut back any spent stems with secatuers. Take care not to damage any new growth that may already be coming up through the crown of the plant. Stems and debris can be pulled out by hand from the centre of the clump. When the grass is cut back half-way it is easier to see what you are doing, and to avoid damaging any young green shoots coming up through the lower part of the clump. You can now cut the clump back to a few centimetres from ground level, leaving a hairy tuft through which the new growth can come up easily without getting tangled with the old stems. When you’ve done this you will find that water can now run through it easily. Pick out any dead leaves or debris from the crown of the plant, and remove any weeds. Tidy the surrounding area. You may wish to mulch and top-dress around the crown with 50g per sq m of a general fertiliser. This will feed the plant as it comes back into growth, and freshen up its appearance before the spring.


Horticultural.

MARCH IN THE VEGGIE PATCH

Even though the Inishowen gardens look like they are still sleeping, there are some veggies we can start planting for a good crop, later in the season.

These veggies should do well in our climate. Shallots can be planted now until the end of March, but the soil must be fairly dry and warm, covering the soil with polythene 2 weeks before planting will do the trick. When planting don't push the bulbs into the ground as this will compact the soil, dig a small hole with a trowel put the bulb in leaving the tip showing. Gardening experts tell you to plant the bulbs 9ins apart in rows 12ins apart. I tend to plant them a lot closer together though because our garden I so limited for space. This doesn’t seem to affect the yield at all and the closer spacing means less space for weeds to get a hold. Deep, well-dug fertile soil in full sun gives the best results though. If you didn't manure the soil in the previous season, rake in pelleted chicken manure before planting.

Now is the time to sow Brussels Sprouts an F1 hybrid such as " Per Gynt" for picking in August, using multi-cells, sow two seed per cell germinating them in gentle heat in the greenhouse. Once they are through remove the weakest seedling from each pair then put them in a cold frame, plant out in early spring, when the weather permits. Summer cabbage can also be sown under cover in multi cell trays. Harden off before planting.

Peppers and aubergines would need to be grown in a glasshouse in this part of the country. Sow the seeds in small pots, at the end of this month. Cover with a fine layer of sieved compost and keep evenly moist, a fairly high temperature is needed 65-70F (18-21C) will give good result.

Horticultural.

INSOMNIA

If insomnia is keeping you awake at night you could try these simple sleep inducing methods.

The first suggestion would be to get yourself some camomile. Herbalists have sworn by this method for centuries. Take six to ten flower heads and pour on boiling water, again, leave to cool and drink before you go to bed. The fresh flower is very strong, dried flowers, we feel, taste better. The health shop sells the little bags on a string if you can’t get hold of the flowers. Camomile is also supposed to be good after heavy meals as it contains some long word called antispasmodic substances that help the digestion.

A stronger herb, valerian can also be used, it doesn’t taste very nice (thinking smelly socks) but it is effective. Put a teaspoon full of finely chopped root into a pan with a cup of cold water in it. Bring to the boil, strain and drink.

Comfrey is said to be very effective for inducing sleep. Put a few leaves in the bath and have a nice long soak. It is so powerful that it’s advised not to have a bath in the morning unless you want to go to bed again. Certainly don’t try driving after the bath.

Lemon balm has been recommended too. Some people actually claimed that a drink made from the leaves was as effective in relaxing you as Valium.

Try putting hops into a pillow. This can be warmed in the microwave to feel very pleasant on the head. Or try a sprig of lavender under the pillow.

Other more conventional drinks could be tried too. Warm milk, milk and honey for example. Most effective for some would be milk, honey and a drop of whiskey. Not too much alcohol though as this can keep you awake.

Household,environmental.

HAYFEVER

We have noticed that the pollen count is rather high at the moment. And as always at this time of year, the many hay fever sufferers are enduring runny eyes and sneezing. At clean and green this week we will try and find some simple remedies to ease the pain.

HAYFEVER

I remember a few years ago seeing a product on the market that would suit the most chronic hay fever sufferer. It was what looked like a goldfish bowl that you fit on your head and all the air that passes through it goes through a filter to take out the pollen. Although it is claimed to be very effective it does have its drawbacks. There’s eating of course, it would have to be removed for that and then there would be the comments made from people in the street like “Where’s the spaceship?” But it would be worth it if you suffered really badly. You could buy one with tinted plastic if it bothered you, nobody would know who you were then.

A different approach, which has been known to be very successful, is to find a local producer of honey. The more local the better. Take a teaspoon full every day and this builds up the tolerance levels for the pollen.

On a similar theme another idea that would be worth trying is to harvest some local nettles. Put a handful into a pot and pour on boiling water. Leave until it’s cool enough to drink and strain into a cup. Sweeten with honey.

Environmental,houshold.

PILL POPPING

Mrs. B. from Malin e-mailed a top tip for us this week. She claimed that if you put a tablet under your tongue as opposed to on top when swallowing it the tablet goes down easier. She went on to say that it’s something to do with the tongue wanting to get rid of the object. We’re sorry Mrs.B. but after experimenting with four packet of M+M’s we beg to disagree. We’ve tried it here so you don’t have to!

Environmental.

PERFUME

Photo: Fresh air.

Perfume is worn by a lot of people. Some people wear them for years without realising that they have an allergy to them. Most perfumes are the product of laboratory experimenting with chemicals. Up to 90% of these chemicals come from petrochemicals and only about 20% of these have ever been tested for safety to humans. When you are buying perfume for a loved one, make sure that they don’t have allergies. I know a few people who react very badly to perfume. My mother for example shows no sign of allergies until she comes into contact with someone wearing a particular companies products (Avon). When this happens, her nose streams for days. Also, two of my close family practically pass out when they have to walk through duty free shops at airports and also when they go into chemists. Most chemists have a perfume counter when you walk in and it is very difficult not to breathe in the fumes. At the other extreme, a few years ago I met a man in Sligo that was instrumental in setting up organic farming in Ireland. If anyone who wore perfume came within 100 yards of him he would go into paralysis and would find himself in hospital for weeks. He was a farmer and came into contact with a lot of chemicals in his early years and consequently his resistance to any chemical was destroyed, this is what prompted him, or should I say, forced him to go organic.

The perfume industry is a multi billion-euro industry. The chemicals that are found in most perfumes are more or less the same as you would find in washing powders, air fresheners and also petrol-based glues for that matter! And we all know about the damage that sniffing glue can cause the body. When you are in the vicinity of a smell, after a bit you can’t really smell it any more. The same goes for nice smells as well as bad. People who wear perfume all the time build up a resistance to it to the degree that you can still smell the perfume five minutes after you have walked past them in the street. Get a group of people together in a room and the resulting smell can blow your head off!

(Warning…only tell someone that they have overdone the perfume if you know them well and they haven’t a history of violence!)

ALTERNATIVES
If you do have allergic reaction to perfumes, yet still want the glamour of smelling sexy, tell your loved ones to get you some perfume that guarantees to use only natural ingredients (not “based on” as most companies claim)

Natural essential oils are a safe alternative and they can be mixed with a base oil or water so you get good mileage from them, as they can be expensive to buy. Then for that extra bit of luxury, put the mixture in a thick glass bottle with a silly top and give it a French name such as Bergamot pour homme or Rose pour femme. No one will be any the wiser and some of us will certainly be able to breathe more easily!

Environmental.

ENERGY MYTHS

Ian
You mentioned recently about leaving fluorescent lights on to save energy as the starters use more than the light being on all day. This is a myth. The starting power of fluorescent lights is about twice the running power for 1-2 seconds; therefore starting the light only uses up about four seconds of equivalent energy. . There are lots of other myths to choose from about the use of energy too, such as solar energy not being efficient for the Irish weather. Ireland gets slightly more solar radiation than most areas. Solar energy works on light, not heat so we are well equipped to run our houses on solar energy. Regards. H.K by e-mail

Reply.I stand corrected! There is an interesting article about this in the Local Planet newspaper written by Peter Schneider. Peter comments on these myths in greater detail. The Local Planet newspaper deals with environmental issues around Ireland and strives for a sustainable future. It was first published last year and it is growing in popularity. Initially the print run was about every four months but now it is bi-monthly. Buy a copy at the newsagent, supermarket or health shop or go online to http://www.localplanet.ie/ to see what it’s all about (have a dictionary handy as some articles are a bit in-depth).

Environmental.

KOMBUCHA TEA

Ian
Could you tell me what this Kombucha tea is that is doing the rounds please? Thanks B.B. by e-mail.

Reply
Chances are you have been offered some of the culture to grow yourself. Kombucha is a fermented drink made from sweet tea and a Kombucha mushroom or Kombucha culture as it should more properly be called. The culture is live and is a co-dependant blend of healthy bacteria, yeasts and other micro-organisms. It grows quickly and the excess is usually passed on to friends and family. The green tea is poured over the solid mass and with the help of sugar makes a refreshing drink. It costs next to nothing to produce and has a pleasant taste. It is said to be a powerfully effective health drink that tastes like an apple cider or dry white wine. It has been drunk for many generations. In fact, it has been around so long that no-one can tell where it was originally discovered or when.



Actions

Kombucha drinkers around the world have reported a massive list of ailments and sicknesses, which have responded positively to drinking Kombucha on a regular basis. This is how the name "Miracle Fungus" or "Cure-all" has been birthed. The secret of Kombucha is not that it 'cures' a multitude of illnesses but, that it boosts your body's own system to fight those sicknesses. The tea is probiotic, detoxifying and energising. It helps build up immune systems, fights yeast infections and helps joint problems. Research has been carried out for many years into what exactly is in this drink. Based on research old and new, I can tell you of some of the known active components in Kombucha Tea.

Lactic Acid: Lactic acid is essential for the digestive system. Interestingly, it is not found in the tissues of people with cancer, and its lack has been established as indicating susceptibility to cancer.

Acetic Acid: Its main function is to inhibit harmful bacteria. Acetic acid is used as a preservative because of this action. It is also what gives Kombucha that 'kick' to its smell and taste.

Malic Acid: Is also used in the body's detoxification process.

Oxalic Acid: Encourages the cellular production of energy and is a natural preservative.


Butyric Acid: Is produced by the yeasts and when working with gluconic acid, helps combat yeast infections such as candida.

Nucleic Acids: Work with the body aiding healthy cell regeneration.

Amino Acids: As a group they have many benefits including building cells and repairing tissue, they also form antibodies to combat invading bacteria & viruses.

Enzymes: These boost the actions of other health giving components within the Kombucha and your body.

Kombucha also contains vitamin groups B and C, beneficial yeasts and bacteria.


Some say that the drink is more than the sum of its parts. This could be the fact that the drink is slightly alcoholic. It has about a 1% part because of the natural fermentation of the yeast and sugar. This doesn’t sound much but it could be enough to become habit forming, a bit like Bach flower remedies, they contain brandy. Maybe they would both make a good “Hair of the dog”

Environmental.

BALES ON THE BEACHES

Photo: The bales on the beach at Lisfannon.

If you get a chance over the next few weeks try to get out for a walk on the beaches where the council have put the straw bales to stem the tide on beach erosion. Both Lisfannon and Five Finger Strand have had the work done and it looks very interesting indeed. Take a camera and find a fixed spot to take a photo. Next year, take a picture from the same spot and see if the bales actually trap the sand as expected. The bales have been sunk into the sand until only about one quarter of the bale is above ground. It will be interesting to see if they disappear underground when we have the storms in winter.

Update.

The bales appear to be keeping the sand in place behind them. There have been a couple of storms recently which have swept over the bales. Nature is taking it's part too and they are rotting, which gives the grasses something to feed off. The birds like it too!

Environmental.

Environmental.

WASTE PLASTIC INTO OIL

A company in Australia is starting to produce low sulphur diesel from waste plastics that until now could not be recycled and would otherwise end up as landfill. The company called Axiom also plans to be the largest producer of biodiesel on the Australian Eastern seaboard. Currently, 88 per cent of the 1.5 million tonnes of plastic consumed in Australia annually is sent to landfill, this amount could convert to more than 1 billion litres of low sulphur diesel. For example, a simple ice-cream container, weighing just 68 grams can be converted into a diesel fuel which will power a VW Golf car with a diesel engine for approximately one mile. Other plastics that can be converted into low sulphur diesel include chemical and oil containers and bottles, municipal solid waste plastics such as wraps, packaging, bottles and toys; as well as milk crates, silage wraps, irrigation tubing, polypiping and polystyrene packaging. Biodiesel can be mixed in any ratio with petroleum diesel to create a blend, for sale on the general diesel market. Biodiesel can decrease emissions of greenhouse gases by over 90% (biodiesel made from used cooking oil); it is non-toxic and improves operational performance. Other countries will hopefully take up this process but of course it would be far more favourable to stop producing the packaging for wrapping in the first place!

Environmental.

ALUMINIUM POTS AND PANS

A week or two ago someone phoned Highland radio to ask about the hazards of using pots and pans for cooking. They were concerned about contamination of the food from the metal. I did a bit of research and found that there could be adverse effects from the pots, especially if they are soft metal.

Stainless steel pans won't corrode or tarnish permanently, and its hard, tough, nonporous surface is resistant to wear. As stainless steel does not conduct heat evenly, most stainless steel cookware is made with copper or aluminium bottoms. Manufacturers caution against allowing acidic or salty foods to remain in stainless steel for long periods. Although there are no known health hazards from leaching of the metal, undissolved salt will pit steel surfaces.
Aluminium on the other hand has often been linked to Alzheimer’s disease.

Aluminium cookware manufacturers warn that storing highly acidic or salty foods such as tomato sauce and all fruit products in aluminium pots may cause more aluminium than usual to enter the food. (Also, undissolved salt and acidic foods allowed to remain in an aluminium pot will cause pitting on the pot's surface.)

The statistics from America show that more than half (52 percent) of all cookware sold today is made of aluminium. But most of these aluminium pots and pans are coated with non stick finishes or treated using a process that alters and hardens the structure of the metal. Researchers are still investigating the connection between aluminium and Alzheimer's disease. But according to the director of medical and scientific affairs at the Alzheimer's Association, much recent data supports the theory that brains already damaged by Alzheimer's disease may permit entry of abnormally high levels of aluminium. In other words, Aluminium does not appear to be the cause of Alzheimer's disease, but people with Alzheimer's tend to concentrate and store aluminium. Aluminium is the third most abundant element in the earth's crust (after oxygen and silicon). It is in air, water and soil, and ultimately in the plants and animals we eat. So it is virtually impossible to avoid consumption in some form. Many over-the-counter medicines also contain aluminium. According to the report, one antacid tablet can contain 50 milligrams of aluminium or more, and it is not unusual for a person with an upset stomach to consume more than 1,000 milligrams, or 1 gram, of aluminium per day. A buffered aspirin tablet may contain about 10 to 20 milligrams of aluminium. If aluminium pans are in good condition then there should be very little risk from contamination. The conclusion I came to from the research is that if you were in any doubt about the aluminium pans then go out and buy come good stainless steel ones!

Household,environmental.

STERILIZING SOIL

Photo: Peat free gardening.

I was very interested to read the article about peat in last weeks Inish Times. Having seen the destruction in the Midlands at first hand I can appreciate the problems inherent with using peat. Flat plains of lifeless desert, not like the bogs up here which are teaming with insects, frogs, and bird life as well as different varieties of plants and flowers. Up here in Donegal, peat is cut by families for their winter fuel and the bogs are sustained. In the Midlands, the peat companies strip the land of its natural resources with heavy machinery for commercial use. Not that I can talk, after all, I buy briquettes for my fire and peat moss for my plants. This does not mean I think what they are doing is right, quite the contrary. Get me on my soapbox and I can rant for hours about the devastating effects of afforestation, acid rain, short term profit over long term loss etc etc.

ALTERNATIVES TO USING PEAT
The article last week mentioned alternatives to peat such as coir compost (these are the shells left over from the cocoa bean). Mind you these aren’t exactly a local product. They practically have to travel around the world to get to us. This of course takes up fossil fuels to power the ships, causing strip mining or pollution elsewhere and invariably making the product more expensive to buy in the shops. Mushroom compost and composted bark are very effective for mulching and established plants, and easy enough to get hold of locally, but they aren’t that suited to growing seedlings. Even some organic alternatives such as compost made from cattle dung and seaweed still has a percentage of peat in its list of ingredients. I think one of the best alternatives when buying these sorts of products must be the worm casts and vermiculite. After saying that vermiculite is a natural resource that has to be imported… and the debate goes on.

COUNCIL FACILITIES
The system that is in operation for recycling garden waste in Nottingham takes in 70 tonnes of organic garden waste a day and shreds it into fine pieces. This is then piled high until it has rotted down into fine compost and given away free. There would be drawbacks to this scheme for us. Living in a rural area we haven’t the population of Nottingham to produce this amount of material (never mind the income from rates to spend on such schemes. We would also have further to travel to a recycling centre, therefore burning more fossil fuels which causes more environmental problems and so on.

Well, there you have it, the only real solution is staring me in the face. It’s time for us as a community to get to work building up our compost bins and sterilizing our soil. I was in the library this week in Buncrana and there is a leaflet called “Composting Made Easy – A Simple Guide” which you can pick up for free. It’s also great to see local schools getting involved in composting. Composting your organic waste is not a quick way to get the compost you need for your plants. Even though the leaflets say you can make compost in twelve weeks, it usually takes my compost heap a lot longer (up to a year) as I just bung on my kitchen and garden waste and don’t worry too much about temperature, air, layering and all the technical stuff.

STERILIZING SOIL

There is still the problem of what I use for my seedlings. One solution is to sterilize your own garden soil. There are products on the market that will heat the soil until all the bacteria is destroyed. The prices start at about 70 euros and will do a couple of shovels full at a time. I recall one year I decided to sterilize some soil in the kitchen by using steam. I used a saucepan with boiling water in it and put a metal sieve over the top with about a cupful of garden soil in it at a time and let the steam get to work for half an hour. This method took a full day until I had enough soil to fill a few seed trays. And another day to get the mud off the worktops! I did try just pouring boiling water over the soil, but this proved to be ineffective, as it didn’t kill all the weed seeds. I suppose there’s always the garden flame throwers, but maybe that might be a bit too dramatic…All these methods again use some form of fuel energy to make them work, so maybe the ideal solution is to use the compost from the middle of your well rotted compost bin. (The only energy used here would be walking to your compost bin!) There is a better chance of this being sterile as the center of the heap will get to the highest temperatures, killing all the nasty things that your seedlings won’t like. Mind you there’s not much chance of those temperatures in the centre of my compost heap, so for now I’m off to the Co-op, in my petrol guzzling car, to buy yet another bag of peat based compost to put into my plastic plant pots. How do I sleep at nights?

Environmental,horticultural.

VARIEGATED POPLAR

Most Poplar trees grow too large for a small garden. Some can grow to 80 ft (25m) in just 20 years and their root systems can damage drains and can undermine foundations if they are planted too close to the house. Thankfully the variegated poplar (Populus candicansAurora) isn’t so vigorous. They can grow up to 30 ft (10m) though. They can grow in full sun or semi shade in most soils around the peninsula. I’ve noticed this year in particular that most of the trees (or sometimes shrubs) have scorched leaves, I don’t think this is any cause for concern as it looks to me that it has been caused by the storm we had a couple of weeks ago. If you want to keep the tree in shape then now is the time to cut out all the dead wood and prune back the branches. Don’t do it in winter or spring as the tree may get a fungal disease. If you fancy increasing your stock they are easily grown from cuttings now or by digging up and replanting the suckers that will appear in early spring around the tree.

Horticultural.

PLANTING ROSES

Last week I mentioned the different types of Roses that are on the market. This week we can have a look at the planting procedure.

Buying Roses

Bare root Roses- These will be available from October to March, usually by mail order. They should be planted as soon as they arrive, unless the soil is frozen or waterlogged. Some may be pre-packed in peat but they need to be planted out straight away too.

Roses in containers-Although March to August is the suggested time, some suppliers also have Roses available during the winter. They can really be planted at any time provided they are watered in dry spells.

Planting Roses
Soil preparation is important. Dig into the planting area about 5cm (2ins) of organic material such as well-rotted manure, garden compost or mushroom compost. DO NOT place fresh manure near the roots, as this will scorch them.

Bare root Roses
Dig a hole large enough to take all the roots. Fork over the base to loosen the soil. After placing the roots in the hole, replace half the soil and tread firmly in, adding a little water if it seems dry. Ensure there are no air pockets around the roots. Replace the remaining soil, tread firmly and water in. The join of the branches and the roots should be just above ground level when planted

Roses in containers
Dig a hole large enough to take the container. Remove the Rose from the container, taking care not to disturb the roots. Place the root ball in the hole and replace the soil. Tread in firmly.

Don’t work the soil if it’s too wet-If it sticks to your spade or shoe then its just the excuse fair weather gardeners like me need to put the job off for another day!

Horticultural.

MOON GARDENING

We’ve had some very good gardening days this week. I’ve been making the most of the sunshine and venturing into the overgrown areas of the garden. The Lavatera shrub that I put into the garden as a little insignificant twig last year, had to be pruned back using a pair of heavy-duty loppers. In the year it’s been there it has grown to over 6 feet (2m). They are attractive in the summer with their large purple flowers, but they do tend to look a bit shabby, especially in the winter. Lavateras have very brittle branches and if they aren’t pruned back they tend to snap in strong winds. I treat them in the same way as Buddleias by practically cutting them down to ground level. It looks drastic, but it will be back up to 6feet (2m) next summer

Gardening by the moon
Gardening by the moon doesn’t mean going out at night and pulling your weeds (sorry mulching) but using the lunar calendar to assess the best time to plant seeds for the best possible crops. The system is known as biodynamic gardening. Biodynamic gardening has been around for 50 years although the practice of using the moon cycles as a guide was used in ancient times by the Chinese, Greeks and Romans. The idea of biodynamics is to use natural cycles and work in harmony with them.

How gardening by the moon works.
As well as controlling the tides the moon controls the moisture content in the soil. There are two periods:

The waxing moon, which is the growing moon from new to full. That’s when the moisture level in the soil is at it’s highest and is the most favorable time for seeds to germinate so it is best to plant them a few days before depending on how long it takes a seed to germinate.

The waning moon which is from full to last quarter. That is when the moisture content is at it’s lowest and there is less sap growing in your trees and shrubs, this time is the most favorable for any type of pruning.

Biodynamic calendar for vegetables

The Biodynamic calendar gets a bit more complex as they split things into a four-element cycle depending on where the moon is in relation to the star signs.

1,Root days: this has earthy energy and is the best time to plant carrots beetroot and spuds etc.

2,Leaf days: This period has water energy. This is the best time to plant spinach, basil etc.

3,Flower days: The plants best sown in this time of air-based energy are the ones grown for their edible flower heads such as cauliflower and broccoli.

4,Fruit days: This time is fire based and plants such as peas and beans are best planted on a fruit day

Fertilizers
Reports have proved that applying fertilizers at the right time in the lunar calendar can cut the plant requirements by up to 50%.

Harvesting crops
Following the moons cycle can be important for storing vegetables too. Crops such as potatoes and carrots are best stored near a full moon, as this is when they have the lowest water content and stand less chance of rotting. On the other hand if you wanted the juiciest vegetables for eating on the same day then harvest when the moon is waxing. This would also be a good time to harvest crops that were being sold by weight, such as grain. In a waning moon they increase in bulk so there would be a better price at market!

If you would like further information about lunar gardening here are a couple of websites to look at. www.plantingbythemoon.co.uk www.moongardening.cwc.net .

Horticultural.

DRAINAGE

If you think it’s too cold for light garden duties, get your spade ready for some serious digging of drainage channels. (Better still; get someone else to dig them!)

Drainage
Most trees, bushes and plants don’t grow in waterlogged soil. The most likely cause of this, especially in the garden of a new house is that the garden is made from a layer of subsoil dumped during excavations or building work and then covered with a thin layer of topsoil to finish off. The subsoil quickly becomes a solid layer that prevents drainage. In these cases breaking up this layer means the water can drain away. Start by digging a hole about 3 feet (1m) wide and deep to see how far down the topsoil goes and how quickly the water drains away after rain. If it doesn’t drain away then artificial drainage is needed. If your site does need draining you will have to install an underground system with pipes of either clay or flexible plastic. These are laid to a pattern (usually herringbone) with feeder runs to the main outlet pipe running to a neighbouring ditch or a soak-away. The depth of the drain depends on when you reach the layer of subsoil usually between 2 and 3 feet. The trench is most commonly dug in a V shape, which holds the pipe in place.

Soakaways
The problem in many gardens is where to take the water when it runs down the drainage pipes. If you don’t have a ditch or a surface water drainage system for the water to drain away then it may be necessary to dig a soakaway. A hole 3ft(1m) wide and 3 ft (1m) deep (if you can dig down that far!) can be prepared in an area of the garden where the pipes lead. This hole is then filled with rubble or stone and the topsoil is then put back in place. You can now plant on this soil. It is best to site your soak-away a good distance from the house.


Types of drainage material.
Concrete or clay pipe-These can be bought in short lengths and put in place leaving small gaps to allow the water through. These could move out of place and cause them to block up. I have heard of these lasting a few lifetimes without any problems though.Plastic pipe. - This is bought in continuous strips and cut to length. They have small holes all the way around them to let the water soak through.

Hotricultural.

FUCHSIA

Sailors slip. The Fuchsia.

A plant reminiscent of Inishowen in the summer is the Fuchsia. The red flowered hedgerow plant lines many of our roadways but did you know that a sailor brought the flower from South America in the late 18th century as a present for his wife. James Lee, a nurseryman, saw it in the couples’ window and persuaded the sailor’s wife to part with it. From this plant he raised 300 cuttings, which he sold for £1 each, and then other plants-people set to work. By 1842 the first white fuchsia had been raised and the first tricolour appeared in 1872. Since then many varied types have appeared practically every year.

Environmental.

WASTEWATER WETLAND SYSTEMS

I’ve had my wrists slapped a few times over the last week. I mistakenly said the Co-op was stocking a product that turned hydrangeas from pink to blue. I honestly thought I saw the product on the shelves, but I must have dreamt it. For this piece of misinformation I humbly apologise. After saying that the Co-op will endeavour to track down a supplier and stock the product in the near future. When the product is on the shelves I will let you know straight away.
I have been told that a rusty pole pushed into the ground around the shrub does the same job colouring the flowers. Don’t rush to the Co-op for the rusty poles though; I know for a fact that they don’t sell them!

I’ve been preparing my tunnel for winter this week, and with the winds I’d say I’m just in time. I put a door on to save the plants from cold drafts, I’ve built a little protective cover for spring and summer bedding seedlings, getting ready for new heater cables. Yes, my plants are going to get pampered this year! I’ve also been doing a bit of an autumn tidy-up in my own garden, as it was getting a bit embarrassing when customers came down the drive- before you couldn’t see the plants for sale amongst the weeds!

Wastewater wetland systems ( or reed bed sewage systems)
Last week in the Inish times there was an article from a CLAMS report about pollution in the Swilly. The article commented on the overloaded state of the sewage treatment works. For a while now I’ve been very interested in natural sewage systems such as wetland systems. Natural sewage systems process waste and effluent through a system of marsh plants, planted in a way so that when wastewater is passed through them, the plants absorb the pollutants such as nitrogen and phosphorous. A work friend of mine, living in Clones, was involved with growing the marsh plants, particularly reeds and introducing them into the environment to treat wastage from businesses and private households. The local council there were very interested in this system and have planted areas to clean the excess water from road run off. Wetland water systems can be used for a wide variety of water disposal including farm run off, silage effluent, and even landfill leakage. These sorts of methods have been used inadvertently for sewage treatment ever since the first towns and villages channelled waste into the natural wetlands that surrounded them. Man - made wetlands for wastewater treatment are less costly than other forms of treatments and have little or no running costs. A household system would only have to measure three metres square and could be constructed for as little as 400 euro.

The advantages of constructed wetlands for wastewater treatment are:

· High treatment efficiency possible –It results in good clean water.
· Low capital running costs.
· Minimum maintenance.
· Low energy requirements.
· Tolerant of variable loads.
· Beneficial to wildlife.
· Pleasing to the eye (and nose!)
· No chemicals.
reeds,Suitable for cleaning effluent from existing overloaded systems.

Horticultural, environmental.

PLANTING HANGING BASKETS

With the threat of frosts gone, the annual hanging basket frenzy is well under way. With my basket liners arriving earlier in the week I have taken a break from the monotony of potting and the heavy work of my outside jobs to concentrate on the pleasurable and creative past-time of making up the hanging baskets. The tunnel is full of them and every time I walk past them (or walk into them –ouch) I have to resist the temptation to put more plants in the gaps. If I were to keep filling them then there would be no room for the plants already in there to grow. After saying that I still manage to sneak the odd extra Petunia in somewhere.

Planting up hanging baskets
What you need: Your basket, basket liner or moss, plants, slow release fertilizer granules (you can buy a box of Osmocote from the Co-op). Water with comfrey juice if you go down the organic route.

First rest the basket onto a bucket or pot for a good base when working. Make sure the plants have been well watered before starting too. Line the basket. I am using coco fibre liners this year, they have holes already in the sides which saves me having to use my brain to get the plants evenly spaced. If you are using moss, then line the basket to halfway up the sides. There are no fixed rules on plants to use, but you won’t go far wrong putting three or six plants (or clumps if you use Lobelia) through the side of the basket. Trailing plants also look effective. Then line the moss to the top of the basket and fill with compost. Add slow release fertilizer granules. There are also water-retaining crystals on the market that can help prevent the basket from drying out.

Plant a tall plant in the centre and lower growing plants around it .If using trailing plants on the top of the basket, put them 6cm (2in) from the edge. They will fill out nicely by the time they trail over the edge of the basket.

Once planted, water thoroughly, allow to soak, and then water again. Protect from strong sunlight for a few days and take them in if there is a frost. Deadhead regularly, water frequently (They will need watering even if the weather is cloudy and wet in summer) and liquid feed when the plants look as though they need perking up.

Tip- if the basket does dry out, no amount of watering will wet the inside of the soil. Take down the basket and place it in a large container full of water, leave it until it is just about to sink, then pull it out. This sounds drastic, but it will save the basket!

TAKING CUTTINGS

Photo: Softwood hydrangea cutting.

Propagation by stem cuttings is the most common way to increase your woody ornamental plants and herbs. Most common shrub cuttings root easily.

A greenhouse isn’t necessary to propagate stem cuttings but keeping the humidity high is important. If only a few cuttings are required then a plant pot covered with polythene (figure1) or an old plastic bottle with the base cut off would do the trick. For more cuttings, seed trays with a plastic lid would be ideal.


TYPES OF STEM CUTTINGS
The four main types of stem cuttings are herbaceous, softwood, semi-hardwood and hardwood.

Herbaceous cuttings
These are made from non-woody, herbaceous plants such as chrysanthemums and dahlia. A 3-5 inch (7-10cm) piece of stem is cut from the parent plant. The leaves on the lower one third to one half are removed. A high percentage of the cuttings should root easily.

Softwood cuttings
These are prepared from soft, succulent, new growth of woody plants (rose or woodbine) just as it begins to harden (mature). The soft shoots are quite tender and should not be allowed to dry out. The time to get this new growth is around May and June.

Semi-hardwood cuttings
These cuttings are obtained in mid July to autumn. They will have partially mature wood on the current seasons growth. The wood is quite firm and the leaves are full sized. Many broadleaf evergreen shrubs are propagated this way.

Hardwood cuttings
These are taken from dormant, mature stems in autumn, winter and spring. The wood is firm and does not bend easily. Hardwood cuttings can be used for many evergreen plants as well as deciduous plants

TAKING CUTTINGS
Take cuttings in the early morning if possible, because the plant is fully turgid (full of water) the cuttings can be between 4-6 inches long (8-12cm) cutting just below a node on the stem. The lower third of the leaves can be removed. Large leaves on the cuttings could be cut in half to prevent too much water loss. Some people recommend a rooting hormone powder to increase the chances of the cuttings rooting. I have found very little evidence to prove the powder works except on Potentillas where it does seem to improve the chances of the cuttings taken. Use sterile potting compost that is low in nutrients, this helps the roots form faster as they search for food. One part peat compost to one part sand is a good mix. Push the cuttings in a third to half the length making sure they are the right way up. Water in and cover with plastic, being sure to avoid direct sunlight.

The newly rooted plants can be transplanted into pots to establish outdoors before they are put into their final position in the garden.

Horticultural.

SONAIRTE

(Click on the title for a link to Sonaitre)

We’re back from our annual get away from it all holiday. Thankfully we only went as far as Church Hill, near Letterkenny for our outdoor adventure. Camping expeditions can be really good fun if the weather holds out, but after 24 hours of rain we decided to wring ourselves out and beat a hasty retreat back home. On our return we found that our two friends, Paul and Deb had been working wonders in the short time we were away. We were only away for 24 hours and in that time they managed to tidy the house beyond recognition, reclaim the vegetable patch, planted a small woodland out the back and created a decent display for the front. Thanks to them both for all their work, particularly for writing the column last week. Their humorous informative article made a change from my usual ramblings. Cheers-we’ll have to go away more often.


Sonairte- The National Ecology Centre
I paid a visit to Sonairte in Co Meath on my way back from the Kildare growers show a couple of weeks ago. The centre was set up in the late 80’s to promote environmental awareness. At the centre you can experience ecology in action. There is a wide range of attractions designed to appeal to all types of interests and ages.

Organic garden.
The walled garden demonstrates how produce can be grown without the use of chemicals. They have rare old apple varieties a large herb garden and wildlife area.

Riverside Nature Trail.
The nature trail offers a tranquil riverside walk, which is rich in plants and wildlife. There is an opportunity to do a spot of bird watching on the Nanny estuary.

The Renewable Energy Courtyard.
Here you can see how the forces of nature can be used to produce safe, clean energy. There are solar, wind and waterpower displays together with interesting information and interactive exhibits to help understand how these systems work.

The Adventure Playground.
This is for people aged 6 to 16; it includes rope bridges, climbing towers and swings to provide hours of fun.

Toddlers Play Area.
For younger children, this area is in view of the Coffee Shop; it includes swings, slides and a climbing frame.

Lecture Hall.
This building hosts a variety of courses on environmental issues.

The centre also sells its home grown organic vegetables and herbs and a gift shop sells recycled glassware, pottery, candles and soaps.

I visited the centre on a Saturday and found it very quiet, they have a lot of school trips in the week and I was told that more staff work then too. So if you pay them a visit and like a bit of action it may be more fun on a weekday


Horticultural.

PLANTING DISTANCES

Photo: Crammed in Primula do make a colourful display.

GIVE THEM SOME SPACE

On all these garden makeover programmes on telly, the presenters often buy mature plants for that instant effect. However most of us buy young shrubs – or take slips, to plant in our gardens. It is a lot cheaper and we get the pleasure of watching the plant mature. One question that I often get asked when customers buy shrubs from me is how far do you plant them apart. It’s all too tempting to put the shrubs too close together for an instant gratifying effect. Over the next few years these shrubs will reach maturity, and if they have been planted too close together they end up competing for light and space, which will affect the look of the plant. There are two alternatives –The first is to dig out some of the shrubs and move them to a more open spot. This would probably be the more sensible option, although make sure you move it at the right time of year (usually when it is not flowering or frosty). The second alternative is to get in there every year with a pair of heavy duty loppers and hack them back, this can destroy a lot of the shrubs natural beauty though, although if you have a small garden and you work the shape well it can look fine.

Getting the spacing right at the start is important. If you are in doubt there is a rough guide to help give you some idea of the approximate distances the shrubs can be planted apart.

Most shrubs: When planting two shrubs together add the mature height of both shrubs together then divide the answer by three.

For example: Hydrangea grows to at least 5 feet high (1.6m) planted next to an escallonia that grows to about 6 feet (2m) that will be (5 + 6 =) 11 feet (3.6m) divided by three is near enough four feet apart (1.2m).

Most trees: When planting two trees together add together the mature height of both tree and divide the answer by two.

For example: An ash tree can grow to 25 feet (8m) and planted next to the fast growing variegated poplar that can grow up to 30feet (10m), will need a distance of 27 feet (9m) between them. Maths lesson over –thank goodness!

If you have a small garden and want more than one tree planted in it then it would be wise to go for the smaller growing varieties.

Initially the borders will look pretty bare and unattractive. Sometimes if you go for the black webbing and gravel look then you can get away with using fewer plants. But if there is a lot of bare soil then “fill in” plants can be used between the shrubs such as Forsythia Ribes, Spirea and Mahonia, These will provide a colourful display and they can be progressively removed as the permanent shrubs grow in size.

A second alternative would be to plant in between the gaps with bulbs, annual plants, herbaceous perennials and ground cover plants. Whichever you decide on it will look better than having an overcrowded shrub bed.

Horicultural.

CONTAINER CARE

Even though the weather is a bit on the wet side, check all your containers and baskets to see if they need a good water. The plants are getting bigger now and may need watering at least once a day. Check the plants for faded flowers and pinch out any dead heads, this will promote a new flush of colour. While your there, check for pesky greenfly and slug damage too.

TOP TIPS

Use an old baby-changing mat to kneel on when doing the weeding.

When your Wellingtons spring a leak, cut off the legs Use the bottom sections as slippers when you go to bring in the coal. Use the top sections for wearing on your arms when pruning prickly shrubs.

Horticultural.

TEN TOP HERBS

Photo: Lavender attracts butterflies.

This week’s wet weather has returned my back garden to its familiar waterlogged state. With my movements restricted I’ve been paying attention to my more tender plants in the polythene tunnel to see what damage the recent frosts have caused. I have no form of heating in there as yet so even after my attempts to protect them with bubble polythene, most of the pots were totally frozen through for a week. Now they have thawed , a lot of top growth has perished. I’ll be keeping a close eye on things for the next few weeks to see if root damage has set in. This year a tunnel heater is high on my wants list.


HERBS.
The definition of a herb is any aromatic plant, some part of which is used for cooking or medicine. Generally herbs are easy to grow and undemanding. Most herbs will thrive in an open, sunny position with well-drained soil; some will even grow in moist shady soil such as marjoram, tarrogon, chervil, anjelica or bergamot.

Grow herbs that you like and will use, for example if you take herb teas, grow mint or lemon balm or fennel, for cooking grow Rosemary for lamb dishes or fennel for fish and chicken.
Herbs can be planted in the borders or the vegetable patch or if used in cooking then pick a spot outside close to the kitchen. Herbs grow well in containers so these could be placed near the house for easy picking.

Mints are best grown in containers as they could take over your garden if left unchecked.
Shrubs such as lavender and rosemary benefit by being trimmed back, this stops them becoming leggy and promotes fresh new growth.

Herbs attract a large amount of beneficial insects. Lavender attracts butterflies and marigolds attract hoverflies which helps keep your greenfly population in check.

Salads and desserts can be flavoured and made more decorative by adding nasturtium leaves and flowers and pot marigold flowers.

The fragrance of herbs can help relieve stress and be relaxing. Home made pomanders, pot pourris and scent bags can be made by experimenting with herbs you have in the garden. Try mixing them with rose petals. Avoid herbs such as chives as the scent would overwhelm the others.
Fresh herbs can be used all year. finely chopped and frozen in ice cubes. Hanging sprigs upside down or placing leaves on tray and putting in a warm, dry place can dry most herbs. When they are totally dry the herbs can be put in airtight containers until needed.


TEN GOOD HERBS TO GROW.

BASIL ¬ Tender annual, grow on a sunny windowsill. Good with tomato dishes.
BAY ¬Evergreen, fairly hardy good in pots and topiary.
CHIVES ¬Hardy bulbs with onion flavour, purple flowers in summer.
FENNEL ¬Bold feathery perennial green or bronze. Good in flowerbeds.
MARJORAM ¬Hardy perennial for light soil . use in stews
MINT ¬Adds flavour to spuds and peas. Grow in a container.
PARSLEY ¬Full of iron . Use in sauces and garnishes.
ROSEMARY ¬ Fragrant shrub. Adds flavour to lamb.
SAGE ¬Sprawling, hardy and evergreen, some variegated. Use in stuffing.
THYME ¬Shrubby perennial with dense aromatic foliage.

APRIL IN THE GARDEN

Photo: Don't forget about the mower!

April is the time in the gardening year to really move up a gear. If you haven’t already returned outside, now is definitely the time to do so – get on top of your garden before it gets on top of you! The biggest obstacle in the garden is making a start. It is sometimes difficult to know where to begin. I find that having a good tidy up is the best way to ease myself back into the swing of things. Here’s a few other jobs to be getting on with after limbering up.

Look after Bulbs
Remove dead heads from bulbs that have finished flowering. If left they will produce seeds which slows down root development and that weakens the bulb. Leave the leaves of daffodils or tie them up and allow them to die back naturally. This allows the bulbs to recharge themselves for more beautiful flowers next year. Divide any congested clumps and replant them in a new plane at the same depth the clump was originally.

Pruning
Prune winter flowering shrubs such as Jasmine or Viburnum to improve their shape. Spring flowering bulbs such as Forsythia generally need more extensive pruning and should be done after flowering. Cut away the oldest shoots to encourage new growth this season for a good display next year. Remove dead wood and damaged shoots that may encourage disease in the plant.

Sowing Annuals
Sow annual seeds straight into well-prepared soil weed free soil. Spread them thinly and cover with a thin layer of soil. Water them in well with a fine hose or watering can. Larger seeds should be sown individually to a depth equalling their size. Again, water the seeds in well. Remember to scatter the seeds because of they grow up on top of each other the seedlings will become weak and disease is encouraged.

Winter–Flowering Heathers
Clip the old flowers off winter flowering heather. Take care not to cut into the old wood.

Soil Preparation
Prepare areas where summer bedding will be planted out in late May. Pull out all weeds and roots. Feed with organic matter or plant food.

Sweet Peas
Sow sweet peas outside where you want them to flower.

Outdoor Sowing in the Vegetable Plot
Crops to outside now include mange-tout, broad beans, beetroot, lettuce, parsnip, onion, garlic, peas, spinach, radish, turnips and herbs. Sow Brussels sprouts, summer cauliflower and cabbage in a seedbed or tray to transplant into final position in May.

Clean Paving
Pressure wash paving and steps to remove slippery algae and dirt.

Perennials
Place plant support frames over clumps of tall perennials so new stems grow up through them and
hide them completely.

Borders
Add a good mulch of organic compost or bone meal around shrubs and roses to give them a good start for the season.

Did you know? Traditionally, Pansies are a sign that you are always in some-ones thoughts. Blue pansies mean “I miss you”, purple mean “I am filled with passion for you”, and orange is the symbol for warm hugs!

Horticultural.