PEAT DEPLETION

Photo: Not our sandcastle (maybe next year). We did a snail!

(Click on the title for a link to the Irish Peatland Coservation Council (ipcc))



MORE COMPETITION
I entered the sand castle building competition with my two lads last summer. It was all part of the festival fun of course, but I went with my big spade to shift some serious amounts of sand and create a giant sand snail. Embarrassingly enough for me, we won. To make matters worse there was a complaint from another group of children who reckoned that it was unfair to have a grown up helping to build, or sculpt as I like to call it, a sand castle. The judges had to change the rules to a grown up section and a children’s section….

Thinking about it though, I think it was a good thing that an adult won. We need more adults as well as children on the beach with our spades in hand to create sand masterpieces. Watch out. Next year, I’m coming with a J.C.B.!

PEAT
As I’m on the subject of digging things up I thought I’d talk about peat extraction. I was in Carndonagh last week to pay my car tax that helps keep the peninsulas roads in tip top condition. I then popped into the library and spotted an Enfo leaflet on peat extraction in Ireland. I remember visiting a large peat-processing factory fifteen years ago. The owner happily told us there is enough peat to last us 50 years. So we’re down to 35 years and counting! Since the 1940’s intensive methods of extraction have been used to produce the big bags of moss peat we see in the shops. This is exactly the same principle of open cast mining that is used to extract coal. Today less than 8% of the original area has been left undamaged.

In 1989 David Bellamy launched the Moss Peat Campaign in Ireland, U.K. and Northern Ireland. Its aim is to stop the use of horticultural moss peat in favour of more environmentally friendly methods. Here in Ireland, almost all of the peat used in gardens comes from raised bogs. Plants and animals unique to bog and wetlands are threatened with extinction as their habitats are depleted. Since the launch of the campaign many gardening groups and local authorities have gone peat free.

PEAT FREE ALTERNATIVES

Some garden centres stock peat free compost. John Innes is a good example. The larger D.I.Y. shops such as B+Q and Homebase stock their own range of peat free compost. The prices are slightly higher than peat based but it’s worth paying the difference. The alternatives to use are Coir compost- this is made up from old coconut shells. They were a waste product for years until their uses were exploited. (The product does travel a long way on ships to get here though, which will use a lot of fuel) Kitchen compost- your compost from the compost bin could probably supply you with all the potting compost you are likely to need each year. You could also try leaf mould. Leaves can be collected and put into dustbin liner bags. Wet the leaves and seal the bag. Leave for six months and you will have some fine compost.

By choosing alternatives to peat we can make a real difference to the future of the peat lands, its wildlife and plants.

SOIL IMPROVERS

Peat is a very poor product to use as a soil improver. It has no nutrients and you would need tonnes of it do bulk up light soil. If you want to improve the soil then use leaf mould, well-rotted animal manure or mushroom compost (This does contain a bit of peat though) As a mulch peat is pretty bad too, especially around here as it blows away in the wind. Try using bark, wood chips or co-coa shells instead.


Enfo have lots of leaflets about organic gardening and composting amongst other interesting topics. You can find the range in the libraries. The Irish Peatland conservation Council have a website giving more information about peat and its overproduction. The web site address is www.ipcc.ie, check it out, it’s very interesting.

Horticultural,environmental.

JOKES

Who says gardeners haven’t got a sense of humour? I thought it about time to find the best gardening jokes around. So I have spent the best part of a day on the Internet to collect the best jokes that are being circulated in the world of horticulture. I have only told the clean ones (this is a family paper after all), so I'm afraid the choice is a little limited. I did like the joke about a woman’s tomatoes that wouldn’t ripen, but after a lot of thought we decided it was too fruity to print! (It doesn’t get any better I’m afraid).


One cold night a man is sat by the fire watching his favourite television programme. The wind is howling and all of a sudden there is a tap, tap, tap on the door. The man thinks nothing of it and gets back to his telly. Five minutes pass and there it goes again, tap, tap, tap. So in a bit of a mood he gets up and opens the door. No one there! So he goes back and sits down. Just as before there is a little tap, tap, tap on the door. Up he gets again and opens the door. A quiet little voice shouts out “down here”, the man looks down, and at his feet is a little snail.

The man says rather sternly “WHAT DO YOU WANT?” “I’m cold and hungry, can I come in and sit by the fire and have something to eat”? Says the snail. “NO”, says the man and he lifts his foot, swings it back and takes an almighty swing and kicks the snail right over the garden wall. The man sits down and gets back to his programme.

Six months pass and the man is having his lunch when he hears a little tap, tap, tap on the front door. He thinks to himself for a while and then goes to answer the door. There at his feet is the same little snail and the man says again “What do you want”? And the snail answers back in a little forlorn voice, “What did you do that for?”

MORE

A tough looking man came to our garden gate the other day, and when he thought nobody was looking, he took it. Well I thought it best not to say anything else he might take a fence.

What’s brown and sticky…A stick.


A man went into his local shop and asked the assistant “Do you sell potato clocks”?
“Potato clocks sir? I’m not sure what you mean,” replied the assistant.
“Well” came the explanation “I’m always late for work, and my boss said I would get there before nine if I got a potato clock.

What do you call a country where people drive only pink cars…a pink carnation.

A burglar was sent to prison for robbing a stately home, but he refused to tell the guards where he’d hidden the loot. A few months later, his wife wrote to him and said, “Now that you’re in jail, there's no one to dig the back garden. I suppose I’ll have to do it myself.”
So the robber wrote back saying, “ Don’t you dare dig up the back garden, that’s where I buried the stuff from the stately home!” And he handed the letter to a warden to post. A week later he got another letter from his wife. It said, “You’ll never believe it- yesterday thirty guards came around and dug up the entire back garden!” And the robber wrote back." Now plant the potatoes!”

What’s brown and runs around the garden? …A fence.

Do you want to hear a gruesome story?
A gardener planted a seed. She watered it and cared for it very well, and soon it grew some and grew some…

What are you doing with that manure? I’m going to put it on my rhubarb. That’s a change .We have custard on ours!

And to finish off this attempt at garden humour, remember:

Old gardeners never die, they just spade away.

Send in your joke if you think you can do any better (and goodness knows it wouldn’t be hard)

Horticulture.

CARNIVEROUS PLANTS

Photo: Venus fly trap

Photo: Pitcher plant.

We went to see the little Shop of Horrors play at Scoil Mhuire last week. We have been to see quite a few plays over the years but I must say that this one was certainly one of the most enjoyable. There was so much work involved and looking at the programme I see that there were well over 100 people involved in some way -probably a lot more when you think that someone showed you to your seats and sold you a raffle ticket! The cast were terrific and were equal to anyone that has played at the An Griannan in Letterkenny! For those of you not lucky enough to have seen the performance, it is a story about a plant from outer space that eventually has a very detrimental effect on some people in a place called Skid Row, a downtrodden area in the centre of a city. The plant, called Audrey II starred in a 1960 movie and the remake in 1986 as well as in the stage play. Audrey II is described as being the product of a hybridisation between a "butterwort" and a Venus flytrap. I suppose you could say the plant was carnivorous!


CARNIVEROUS PLANTS
A plant is said to be carnivorous if it attracts, captures, and kills animal life forms. It must also digest and absorb the nutrients from the prey to qualify as a carnivorous plant, (sounds like the Audrey II to me.) Many non-carnivorous plants have also evolved to be attractive for other reasons than food. For example, flowers attract insects, birds, and other creatures including humans for pollination and to spread their seeds. Some plants (such as orchids, and water lilies) temporarily trap insect pollinators to ensure pollen transfer, then releasing them to finish the job. Some plants trap and kill insects with their sticky leaves (but do not digest the prey). All plants absorb nutrients either through their roots or leaves. However, even though these plants do some of the things that carnivorous plants do, they do not fulfil all of the criteria necessary to qualify as a carnivorous plant. Only plants that attract, capture, kill, digest, and absorb prey such as the pitcher plant, the venus fly trap and Audrey II are truly carnivorous.

In recent years people have been realising that nature is not quite so clear-cut as we would like. Some plants are not quite carnivorous, but are not quite non-carnivorous, either! For example, there are sticky plants that harbour insects on them. These insects crawl freely on the plant and eat the small creatures trapped by the sticky leaves. The predators excrete on the leaves, and the plant absorbs nutrients from it. Other plants rely on bacterial decomposition to break down the captured prey. Are these intermediate cases carnivorous? Or should they be called semi-carnivorous or sub-carnivorous? Scientists and philosophers are still pondering these questions. Meanwhile, Audrey II’s babies are slowly taking over the world!

Horticultural.

WEDDING FLOWERS

Photo:lily

I was at a fantastic wedding where my niece got married. The whole affair went very smoothly and every one that went had a great time. The children who attended had a riotous time on the croquet lawn, especially with the mallet with the head that came off when it was whacked hard. Thankfully there were no casualties.

The thing that became apparent to me on the day was that to make a function like this run smoothly without any problems is lots of planning. The day took at least six months to prepare. Everything had to be taken into consideration from the dress and the food to , of course the flowers. Some of the displays were amazing. The sheer size and variation of flowers were amazing, the scent from the flowers were very pleasant but not overpowering.

I’m more familiar with plants that grow in the garden. Some of the plants in the displays I was familiar with, especially the greenery used for fillers. S I took a trip down to see Anita at Crana florists for some help. Anita specializes in designer arrangements, wreaths, and funerals as well as weddings so I thought that this would be a good place to get some information on what’s in this year in the world of flowers.

The amount of work that goes into choosing the flowers for a wedding is daunting. Every thing, and I mean everything has to be taken into consideration, from the style of the church, where flowers could be put on the pew end, to the size of the bride, she doesn’t want to be walking down the isle with a large bouquet if her build is slight, you wouldn’t see her for flowers.. A lot of the colour co-ordination stems from the colour of the bridesmaids dresses as well. The interior of the car has to be taken into consideration; this will need complementary coloured displays. Then there are the table displays. These should be just the right size so people can still see each other when they are sat around the tables. These are usually made up as a candle arrangement and quite low to the table. At my nieces wedding the display at the center of the circular table was raised up on giant champagne glasses. These were tall enough so you could talk to people from underneath them.

The hand held posies that the bride and bridesmaids carry have to complement their dresses and of course the brides flowers should never be upstaged. The same goes for the flowers around the brides table.

One fashion that is fashionable at the moment is to have corsages; these are small displays very similar to buttonholes. These fit nicely onto the brides mother or grandmothers handbag.

The amount of flowers that are used can vary as well. Small quantities can be used to reflect a theme, and then sometimes large quantities can be used to help set it,

Then just when you think that every aspect has been thought of there’s the cake. It’s very popular now to have a pure white cake and decorate it with fresh flowers, these, of course have to complement the style and colour of the brides dress and the table arrangements and the buttonholes…. there’s such a lot to take into consideration!

TYPES OF FLOWERS

Choosing the style as I mentioned earlier is down to personal taste. It certainly helps if you get professional advice as well though because the florist can give you the benefit of their experience. Here are a few of the flowers that are popular this year.

White rose. (Rosa Tamara) these are always very popular for all the displays.

Calla Lily. (Irish Lily) you see these in local gardens. These too are a very popular white flower.

Anturium. These are very similar to the Calla Lily but the come in all colours such as lime green, pink and red.

Freesia. These are popular for all the displays. Their heady scent is lovely (unless you suffer from hay fever!)

Alstramera. These are very long lasting flowers, just what is needed for a hot summer wedding. They come in all colours like pink, rust and lemon that make them very versatile.

Gerbra. These flowers remind me of small sunflowers. Again they come in all colours with varying flower head sizes. They are very fashionable with the younger bride this year. They are complementary to the spring tulips and daffodils.

The greenery can be from almost any thick, shiny evergreen shrub or tree. Eucalyptus, holly, castor oil plant, palm leaves, ivy can all be used to good effect. There are the wispy leaves of the bear grass as well as variegated foliage that can be used too.

There is a bit of a trend at the moment for Green Weddings. In this sort of wedding the flowers are grown locally. This is a great idea but can be a bit limiting if it is a winter wedding. There is always something colourful though throughout the year and if you were serious about environmental issues you could make a dramatic splash with very little.


Horticultural.

MAIL ORDER PLANTS

Ian

I was thinking about buying some plants by mail order. I am a bit worried that when I take delivery they will be dead. How safe is it to buy plants this way?

Reply.

Although it is in the interest of the community to shop local, there is a fascination to buy plants from mail order. The choice is vast and if you shop wisely you can save yourself a few Euros too. In my experience there is little problem with having plants delivered as they are normally very well packed. If you are buying shrubs or bare root specimens, do not be too disappointed when they pop through your letterbox. They will bear little resemblance to the glossy picture you see in the magazines. You will have to grow it for a few years first!. Like all purchases, if there is a problem, you will be covered by the Sale and Supply of Goods act 1994. If items are faulty or not as described, you are entitled to return them or get your money back. In addition to this the Advertising standards Authority operates a Code, which requires all adverts to be legal, decent, honest and truthful. It also says that if you pay in advance through an advert you can return the goods within seven days and get a full refund. There is then the Traders association, which applies a code of practice to reputable companies. These companies are legally obliged to give clear accurate information about price, quality and terms of business. Because of these legalities I think that it is a pretty safe bet to buy from these companies. Personally though I like to see what I am buying first!

Horticultural.

HEALTH AND SAFETY IN THE GARDEN

This article was written a while ago when it wasn't frowned upon to have a small fire in the back garden to burn old garden waste!

A couple of weeks ago I was having great fun building a fire in the back garden. I was so engrossed in the complexities of building the ultimate inferno that I failed to look where I was going. In just a one second lack of concentration my foot went into a hole, which was no more than a couple of inches deep. The sensation was the same as walking down the street and failing to see the curb until you’ve stepped off it. Needless to say it was enough of a jolt to put my back out for a week and a half. I nearly managed to spin it out for two weeks but the sympathy from the family was wearing out fast so it was back to getting the coal in, painting the kitchen and stacking mushroom compost bags in the back garden.

Accidents such as this are all too commonplace. The garden can be a place where hidden dangers can lurk. I don’t want to put anyone off gardening, but it is always a good idea to follow a few health and safety rules.

Before you start in the garden it might be worth considering having a tetanus jab, or having a booster if one is due. Even the smallest cut can get infected. The one’s to be most wary of are the deep cuts that don’t bleed, as apparently the germs stay in the cut and aren’t washed out by the blood. It’s good practice to always wash your hands when you come in from the garden and if you have any cuts treat them with disinfectant (we use diluted tea tree oil).

Now that I am on the subject of health and safety, here are a few more suggestion for garden safety. (I’m making the list up as I go along so if I miss anything I apologise in advance)


HEALTH AND SAFETY IN THE GARDEN

When using weed killers and chemicals always follow the manufacturers instructions and wear safety clothes no matter how daft you look.

Keep all chemicals, even organic ones like nettle juice out of the reach of children.

Even if you are totally organic with your chemicals there are still dangers. If you are using fresh manures such as hay or straw wear a facemask if there is a lot of dust. If the bales are warm then there will be mould spores which wont do your lungs any good at all either.

Take care using machinery. Wear steel toecap boots and long trousers when using mowers and strimmers. Walk around the area to be cut and remove all objects like stones and children’s toys (dog poo is best removed as well before the strimmer hits it!)When using any tool, especially
power tools- be sure you understand how they work.

Make sure all tools are in good condition and cutting blades are sharp. Blunt tools can be dangerous.

Do some light duties first, or better still some limbering up exercises to avoid pulling any muscles later.

When a garden activity causes you pain. STOP. Don’t be afraid to ask for help if the job is too heavy.

Avoid staying in one position too long. Switch tasks often. I tend to have a few minutes potting plants a few minutes bending such as tending to some plants, then a few minutes stretching, picking beans etc. Then half an hours rest in a sunny spot.

Use the strongest muscles for the job. Use your legs, not your back, when using a spade or lifting things. Use the forearm and elbow, not the wrist or fingers, when using a trowel. Use the palm of your hand to push levers and tools, not your fingers. And use your strongest arm to pick up your mug of tea.

If you are working on your own in an isolated area such as woodland, let people know where you are or carry a mobile phone in case of an accident.

Here’s one that is very relevant to me. Only use a tool for what it was designed for. I have lost count of the amount of spade handles I have broken trying to get large stones out of the ground.

Don’t be an accident waiting to happen when carrying things. Carry less and make a few more trips.

This is probably for earlier on in the year when the sun is hotter, if you have sensitive skin then some protection is needed in the form of sun cream or in my case a hat to stop my bald patch getting sunburn.

Check around the garden regularly for potential hazards. Bamboo canes can be very dangerous for the eyes when they are stuck into the ground, put plant pots on top of them so you don’t catch yourself when you bend over. Never leave tools lying around, put them away in a safe place. Never leave a rake on the ground with the spikes sticking up; if you tread on them and the handle fly’s up, you’ll see stars for a week.

If you use a ride on mower go up and down the slopes rather than across them. The push mowers are usually safer if they go across the slope instead of up and down to avoid slipping. I have heard some harrowing tales of people using hover mowers on steep banks and slipping, resulting in serious injuries.

If you are considering any excavation work in the garden check for underground pipes and cables before any work is started.

Keep your body fluids up when doing any work in the garden, preferably water, to avoid dehydration. And stop regularly to admire your handy work.

Horticultural.

WISTERIA NOT FLOWERING

Hello Ian
I have a wisteria climber that I put by the side of my house five years ago. It hasn’t flowered yet and a friend of mine said that I need a male and female plant to produce the blooms, is this correct? KA Letterkenny

Ian Says
I haven’t heard about the male /female thing before (If anyone has please let me know). I think one of the main reasons is that the Wisterias don’t usually flower for the first seven years anyway as they are building up their strength. The plants are also usually put against a wall and the soil can be a bit lacking in nutrients. Build the soil up with mulch and add some potash and peat if the soil is light and sandy. The plants are generally grafted if you bought it from a garden centre so check that the graft is nice and clean. This entails checking near the base of the plant where the stem has been joined to a vigorous rootstock, much the same as a rose bush. If it’s rough or damaged, the climber might never flower. Prune the plant back as well, next month cut the current seasons growth back to about 30cm to let light into the wood. This will encourage bud formation. In February you can cut the stems back to about 5cm to encourage strong shoots.

Horticultural.

RAGWORT

I’ve mentioned a few stubborn weeds in this column over the last few years. Japanese knotweed and horsetail are probably two of the most stubborn. One weed that is in the news this week though is the weed known as Ragwort (Senecio Jacobaea). The British Horse Society (BHS) held an Action Ragwort week last week to highlight the fact that this plant can be deadly to horses and cattle. Ragwort has its place in nature but it is hoped that it can be contained in special areas of conservation.

We see a lot of Ragwort in the hedgerows and neglected land around Inishowen. The society are asking landowners to realise that Ragwort kills and it should be removed from any land that animals use. Every year horses ponies and cattle are put at risk. The Horse Society ask people to pull up the weed or burn them and in severe infestation to use a weed killer. Poisoning from Ragwort can happen at any time of year, as the dried plant in bales tastes good to the animals. The toxins in the plant have a cumulative affect on the animals and a small amount eaten over a long period of time can be as harmful as a large amount eaten all at once.

WHAT IS RAGWORT?
· Ragwort is a biennial flowering weed with crinkly, rosette type leaves. Yellow daisy-like flowers come from stout stems in the plants second year of growth.

· Ragwort is one of the most frequent causes of plant poisoning of livestock.

· Ragwort seeds can be dormant in the soil for up to 20 years.

· Each plant can produce up to 150,000 seeds and these have a 70% chance of germination.


CONTROLLING RAGWORT
There are ways to keep the weed from pastureland and the same principles can be put to use in the garden. If the weeds are allowed to set seed on your own plot then the seeds can easily spread throughout the peninsula. The roots of the plant can regenerate new plants if you don’t pull them all out, so don’t just knock the tops off, get a trowel underneath them. Get to the plant before it sets seed. If you notice the plant close to your own plot then you might have to tentatively mention the fact to the owners of the land, as when they go to seed they could also be your problem. If you see the weed on grass verges then it might be an idea to contact the council and let them know of the problem. There are ways of keeping the weed out of pastureland such as avoiding bare patches of ground and regular cutting of the grass. These principles can be used in your own garden. The thicker your grass the less likelihood of the plant taking hold.

When you are getting rid of this weed make sure that you wear gloves, as they are poisonous to humans as well as livestock and horses.

Before taking any action about ragwort,please check out the RAGWORT UPDATE article.

Horticultural.

ORCHID CARE

SEASONAL HOUSE PLANTS (Christmas edition) – THE ORCHID

At this time of year certain houseplants come on to the market ready for (dare I mention the C word)… Christmas. There are the usual poinsettias and cyclamen to choose from but if you want something a bit different try going for an orchid. For many years most people considered orchids to be a plant that only grew in heated greenhouses. Some varieties may be difficult to grow, but chances are you wouldn’t see them for sale in the garden centres; you would need to go to a specialist for that. My mother received an orchid a couple of months ago and it has proved to be a trouble free plant, infact from my experience they seem to thrive on neglect. I remember a couple of years ago I was nosying around the reduced to sell section in B+Q in Derry and picked up a couple of orchids that were reduced from ₤8 sterling to₤1 sterling, a bargain I thought.

This plant is still with me. After it flowered in the first year I put it in a cold room and forgot about it over winter for six months, then threw it outside the back door where the kids took it out of it’s pot and used it as a sword, then it was dumped into a pot and put in the tunnel. There it is now looking green and healthy and in full flower. I wouldn’t recommend my method of looking after orchids so here are some more accepted ideas should you receive one as a present.

LOOKING AFTER THE PLANTS
Most orchids suited for the home are known as epiphytic (epif-tik) jungle plants (in nature they grow perched high in trees, clinging to branches or in hollows in the trunk). They get their food from the air, rain and decaying vegetation around the roots. Many orchids don’t really need high temperatures, in fact they do better in cool daytime temperatures of 60-70 degrees and lowering to 55 at night. The plants thrive on about four hours of sunlight a day in the winter months so leave them in the brightest place you can.

HUMIDITY
The lack of humidity will be the worst thing for an orchid, if you think how high the humidity is in a rainforest duplicating this will be difficult. They need at least 50% humidity which means that you may have to put the plant on a tray with pebbles and water in it, stand the plant so that it isn’t sat in water as good drainage is important. Misting the leaves will help, but do it early in the day so the water doesn’t sit on the leaves at night.

WATERING
In the growing season orchids can be watered about once a week when the soil becomes dry, don’t allow them to get too wet for long though as this will rot the roots. Use rainwater if you can, as it is softer and more natural. Water very sparingly in winter and leave in a cool room.

COMPOST

Orchids don’t use compost as such, as you can imagine they grow on the bark of trees so that is the ideal medium to put them in if you need to repot the plant. There are special potting mixes that you can get from the garden centres that contain fern fibre and ground bark, which doesn’t cost a lot, the plant that I have growing now has lived quite happily for two years on the tiniest bit of bark, but I would recommend a fortnightly feed of plant food in the growing season if you want a glorious flower display.

Horticultural.

THE MIGHTY OAK

A mature oak tree provides a home for more animals than any other European tree. Thirty species of birds, forty-five different insects and over two hundred species of moth have been collected from oaks. In one year the mature tree can produce 90, 000 acorns. Many animals feed on them. The wood pigeon can hold 70 in its crop at any one time and can eat 120 in a day.

Horticultural.

TREES FOR SMALL GARDENS

Photo: Cherry blossom.

I was looking at old aerial photos of Inshowen last week. I couldn’t help noticing that there are far fewer trees to be seen than at the turn of the century. Ireland used to be more or less covered in large trees but with the increase in farming and housing we are now down to around 3% coverage. Planting trees is important today not just because they clean the air but because of the amount of development that is going on. We live in a hilly area and new houses stand out like beacons on the hillsides. Trees will hide the houses and give shelter and hopefully soon the developers and designers of the new houses will get houses to blend into the landscape a bit more a well. Don’t be put off if you only have a small plot, there are lots of small trees that will fit nicely into small gardens without being too invasive or damaging your underground pipes. Here are a few choice specimens that you will find grow well and are available to buy locally.

TREES FOR SMALL GARDENS
Flowering cherries: (Prunus). Cherry blossom is a beautiful sight in the spring. Different varieties include, Prunus Kanzan with pink flowers in spring and Prunus Shirotae with white flowers.

Flowering crab:(Malus). These grow as large as the cherries (about 15 feet). Varieties include Malus Golden Hornet, which has yellow flowers in spring and the Malus Gorgeous with red flowers. In the autumn the fruit from these trees is suitable for making wines or jellies.

Hawthorne:(Crataegus)-Pauls Scarlet. This is not the common variety you see in the hedgerow but one more suitable for the small garden. It has lovely double red flowers in spring followed by red berries.

If you would like to have a tree with a weeping habit, check out the following varieties:

Cotoneaster Hybrida Pendula: This Cotoneaster is evergreen, with white flowers in spring followed by red berries that last until winter.

Kilmarnock Willow: Very undemanding. It has yellow catkins in spring.

Cherry (Prunus) Cheals - weeping. Pink flowers in spring.

Weeping Copper Beech (Fagus Purpurea Pendula). Spectacular purple leaves.

Weeping Silver Birch (Betula Pendula Youngii). Yellow catkins in spring. The weeping branches can touch the ground.

PLANTING TREES
If you buy a containerised tree you can plant it at any time of year as long as you keep it well watered. There has been research recently that claims that the tree will stand a better chance of thriving if you don’t put enriched soil into the planting hole. The roots of the tree will turn back on themselves when they get to the edge of the rich soil. Planting trees gets easier! Here are some other tips.

1. Make sure you choose the right tree for the right spot. Willows can stand wet soil for example. Don’t plant trees under power lines as you might end up paying out lots of money to get it pruned back if it grows too big
2. Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 3 times wider.
3. Don’t lift the tree by the trunk. Lay it down on it’s side and slide it out of the container
4. Put the tree in the hole and make sure the soil level is the same as when it was in the pot.
5. Refill the hole with the garden soil tread down to get rid of any air pockets, as the roots would not be able to get past these.
6. Create a basin area around the tree so that it will hold water.
7. Water thoroughly, if you use a hosepipe, trickle the water into the basin.
8. Check the tree for dead or diseased wood and prune out.
9. Apply a 3-inch layer of mulch around the tree and keep it a couple of inches from the trunk as this could rot it. Put plenty on as it keeps the weeds down, feeds the tree and helps retain moisture.Water often in the first year.

TIP

To make planting even easier, if you have young trees and they are planted in the ground firmly they will not need staking. Research has shown that large trees that are staked can be slow in developing and damage can occur to the trunks. Buying smaller trees will save you a fortune and they will catch the big trees up in no time!

Horticultural.

TREE PLANTING

This week has been ideal weather for planting a few trees. With container grown trees it’s generally alright to plant any time of year but with bare root types, like the willows (Salix) I’m planting, they should really be planted within the next few weeks before the buds burst. The small trees I’m planting are called whips and don’t really need staking. They will need tree guards to protect them from rabbits. After saying that, the biggest problem I have is my dog eating the tips of the small branches. Willow contains the natural source of aspirin so maybe he’s trying to tell me something.

TREE PLANTING

Consider a few important points before choosing and planting trees:

1. Where is the tree to be planted, for example on a large exposed site or in a small sheltered garden?

2. Decide what size of tree is required. Check to see the size the tree will be in 10 years time, to see whether it will outgrow it’s spot.

3. If the tree is to be planted near to the house, check if it has invasive roots that may damage drains or foundations. Check the tree won’t be blocking the light into the windows when it gets bigger.

4. Would you like a tree that has seasonal interest? For example, spring flowers, berries, autumn colour or interesting bark for winter interest.

5. If planting a group of specimen trees, leave enough room between each one to avoid constant pruning when they mature.

There are a lot of suitable trees to choose from that can withstand our windswept coastal area. Here is just a small sample of the more popular varieties on offer.

TREES FOR EXPOSED SITES.

Whitebeam: (Sorbus aria lutescens) Grows to 12m. They have silvery leaves when young.

Mountain ash- Rowan: These are Sorbus again but have the cluster of small leaflets on each leaf. They are slender trees and have white flowers in summer followed by attractive berries in autumn and winter.

Here are some of the more popular varieties.

Sorbus Joseph rock: These have yellow berries with bright red leaves in autumn.

Sorbus Aucuparia: These have red berries. This is the native Rowan.

Sorbus Commixta: These have orange berries.

Sorbus November pink: These have pink berries

Maple or Sycamore: (Acer) the common Sycamore is an Acer that is extremely fast growing and hardy. These may be too large for your plot, reaching a height of 10m or more. Don’t let this put you off Acers, there are others that make ideal garden trees. Popular varieties include: -

Acer Crimson King: These have purple leaves.

Acer Drummondii: With yellow variegation on the leaves.

Acer Worlii: Golden yellow leaves.

Silver Birch: (Betula Pendula) could grow to 12m, they have attractive bark, generally white, yellow catkins in spring and leaves that turn yellow in the autumn. They will thrive in most soil types – but they are shallow rooted. They need to be well staked and well watered in dry weather. Don’t plant underneath them, as other plants will take the available water.

TIP

To make planting even easier, if you have young trees and they are planted in the ground firmly they will not need staking. Research has shown that large trees that are staked can be slow in developing and damage can occur to the trunks. Buying smaller trees will save you a fortune and they will catch the big trees up in no time!

Horticultural.

WHITE MOULD

MUSHROOM TIME

Ian
A fine white mould appears in patches of my soil. I first thought it was the mouldy roots of a dead plant but have since discovered it amongst the roots of salad leaf plants. What is it and how can I get rid of it? Thanks H.M. Buncrana

Reply
This mould sounds like the mycelium of a fungus breaking down organic matter in the soil and is probably not affecting your plants. But this does not happen in most soils, so why yours? I have several theories. Have you been using mushroom compost as a soil conditioner, in which case the large lumps of organic matter in the compost will be attracting fungi and might still have mushroom mycelium in it - this does not necessarily mean you can eat any mushrooms or toadstools that grow from it! Have any trees recently been cut down near this area of the garden, because fungi might be busy at work breaking down the roots left behind in the soil? Finally, if you have been spreading home made compost, this may not have been properly well rotted and fungi could still be hard at work in it. Track down the source and you should be able to control the fungus.

Horticultural.

MAKE YOUR OWN BOTTLE GARDEN WEEK 2

MAKE YOUR OWN BOTTLE GARDEN (week2)

Last week we looked at how to make up a bottle garden (or terrarium). There are four layers that make up the base; these are gravel, charcoal moss and finally topped off with sterilised soil. This week we will look at the types of plants that will be suitable to go into the container and the arranging. The great thing about buying plants for terrariums and bottle gardens is that the plants will need to be as small as possible. This means that you will not have to pay a lot of money to stock your container. Most garden centres and DIY shops sell these plants for around €1 each so it is very affordable. Although I have made a list here it concentrates more on how little or how much light the plants can tolerate you will probably have to experiment with the plants that are on offer in the shops. Try the carnivorous plants if you feel adventurous, they will be more expensive though. Most of the plants will outgrow their positions eventually so do not be afraid to move them around when necessary.

TYPES OF PLANTS SUITABLE (AND WIDELY AVAILABLE) FOR A BOTTLE GARDEN

Plants that need low light

Swedish Ivy
Birds nest Sansevaria
Maidenhair spleenwort

Plants that need moderate light

Heart-leaved philodendron
Maidenhair fern
Miniature peperomia
Prayer plant
Spider plant
English ivy
Pitcher Plant

Plants that need bright light

Oxalis (shamrock)
Rosary vine
Venus fly trap


SETTING THE RIGHT SCENE
Your new landscape should be structured and set up for the best visual effect from the viewer’s point of view. For example, if the garden will be viewed from all sides, a large plant should be planted in the middle, with lower plants around it. If your terrarium will primarily be viewed from only one side, the tallest plant should be placed near the rear of the container, with lower plants in the foreground, in much the same way that a hanging basket will be made up. It is sometimes a good idea to use something special as a focal point in the landscape, such as a rock or stick to simulate boulders or logs. In these cases, or if you should decide to include a small statue as part of the garden, be sure that it is about the same scale as the plantings.

Before you do any planting, take your time and make certain that the arrangement of your plants creates the desired effect. While they are still in their pots, set the plants around inside the terrarium. (In narrow mouthed containers, it is a better idea to put your ideas down on paper.) Adjust the soil level to create hills at the back, and valleys in the foreground. Move your logs and boulders to different locations within the landscape. Step back a foot or two and see if your arrangement creates the desired effect. If not, do a little more rearranging, and check it again. When you decide that you have created the right “scene”, you are ready to do your planting.

PLANTING UP THE TERRARIUM

No special tools are needed for planting your terrarium, unless you are using a bottle or other narrow mouthed containers. Most likely, you will use a kitchen spoon as your shovel, a fork as your rake, and small scissors as your shears. Narrow-mouthed terrariums require special tools to get the plant down into the terrarium and into the right spot. (i.e. a funnel to add the soil, long slender sticks to dig with, and some type of “grabber” (unless you are good with chopsticks) to lower the plants in, and to actually plant them.)

The lid should then be placed on your terrarium. Normally, a clear sheet of glass is used, but you may have to use your imagination to find the appropriate lid. (clear dishes, plastic sheeting, etc.) Check it frequently for the appearance of condensation on the glass. If large water drops appear on the glass, the container should be left open for a while, until any excess moisture evaporates. In some cases, it may be necessary to keep the lid slightly opened, to allow for fresh air circulation. However, a balanced terrarium should have a certain amount of moisture on the glass.

A completely enclosed terrarium requires little or no watering. If it is not totally enclosed, you may have to water on a weekly or monthly basis (more often for completely open terrariums or dish gardens). The addition of water only becomes necessary if no condensation accumulates on the glass. When water is indeed needed, it should only be added a small amount at a time, since there is no place for the surplus water to run off. Generally, terrariums should not need fertilising, but if the plants start to appear malnourished, you may feed them using a very weak mixture (1/4 strength) of an all purpose house plant food.

Horticultural.

TOP GARDENING TIPS

Paint the handles of your garden tools with the brightest paint you can find. You’ll save yourself the frustration of trying to find out where you last put them.

Make yourself a mini seed propagator by cutting the bottom off a 2 litre, clear plastic bottle. Put your seeds into an 8-10 cm pot, and then put the bottle over the top. This will create a humid atmosphere, ideal for seedlings.

LAVENDER DRYING
When it is time to cut lavender flower stems for drying, choose a dry morning and gather long stems to hang upside-down in a warm, dry place for about a month to dry. If you are cutting flowers for the table, cut these in the morning after the dew has dried or just before sunset, they will last much longer

SOAP
Submitted by JC. By e-mail
Before you start working in the garden, push your nails into a bar of soap. Enough soap remains under the nails to prevent soil getting in saving you the time of hard scrubbing to get them clean.

Horticulural.

MAKE YOUR OWN BOTTLE GARDEN WEEK 1

WEEK 1

When summer becomes nothing more than a memory, and the garden has gone to sleep for the winter, many gardeners revert to working inside. While caring for houseplants is somewhat satisfying, a potted plant sitting alone, on a table is just not the same as a garden filled with flowers. A bottle garden (or terrarium) is a collection of compatible plants grown in an enclosed, or partially enclosed, clear container. This might be an interesting hobby for the dark evenings ahead.

Creating a terrarium filled with ferns and other small plants is a practical and fun way to have a miniature landscape inside your home. Your choice of containers is only as broad as your imagination. There are many ready-made terrariums available, or you can use bottles, jars, aquariums, fishbowls, or even large plastic water bottles. The choice is yours.

Terrariums allow you to grow plants which require a high degree of humidity, which otherwise would probably perish in the dry atmosphere of a heated home. Once the plants become established within your miniature garden, the terrarium begins to create a climate of its own. The plants transpire moisture through their leaves, which then condenses on the glass, and flows back to the soil. This “rain effect” allows the terrarium to go for weeks without watering.

For the beginner, I recommend that you choose a large, open container such as an aquarium. These are much easier to work in. With experience, you can advance to using 'chopsticks' and dibble sticks to plant your garden inside a small-mouthed container, much like building a “ship in a bottle”.

LAYERS
Let us start by looking at the different layers you will need to make up the perfect growing medium for the plants to thrive in.

Layer 1. The bottom layer is for drainage, and consists of pea gravel, pebbles, or very coarse sand. Proper drainage is essential to ensure that the soil doesn't become over-saturated, which may lead to root rot, and the death of your plants.

Layer 2. On top of the drainage layer, it is a good idea to spread a thin layer of activated charcoal (like you would use in an aquarium filter). This layer will help to clean the air of the fumes caused when the organic materials begin to decompose.

Layer 3. The third layer is a thin cover of sphagnum moss, spread over the first two layers. The purpose of this is to prevent the soil from sifting down into the drainage layer, which would render it useless.

Final layer. The final level is that of your soil. Many garden centres sell a potting mix specifically for terrariums and bottle gardens. In reality, all that you normally get for the extra money is sand added to their regular potting mix. You may choose a pre-mixed terrarium soil, or, if you prefer, just add one part coarse builders sand, and one part leaf mould to each two parts of your usual mix. Never use beach sand in any potting mix as it has salt in it! Do not add any fertilizer to the potting mix. It already has enough nutrients to last a long time. Too much will cause the plants to out grow their surroundings, much too quickly. If you intend to create a “desert garden” with cacti, be sure to add extra sand to the soil mixture, and additional gravel to the drainage level.


Horticultural.