Tuesday 15 May 2007

A STROLL IN THE GARDEN-IRIS DOHERTY


This week we are in the garden of Iris Doherty from Whitecastle, Quigleys Point. Iris has been involved in gardening for a long time and trained at Greenmount college before working for Ness Nurseries and Sow and Grow at Gransha hospital. Iris now has her own nursery. Look out for the Whitecastle Nursery sign on the main road between Moville and Muff. The nursery is open from 2-6pm Tuesday –Saturday.

Irises own garden is a fantastic showcase for her own unique range of perennial plants that are for sale.

How long have you been working on the garden?
Nearly thirty years. It was never a planned garden it has just evolved over the years.

What is your favourite plant?
There are so many plants that would be my favourites. In spring the Amelanchier (Juneberry) puts on a fine display. One of my favourites at the moment is Aqualigia ‘Chocolate soldiers’ (Grannies Bonnets) I do have a liking for black flowers, but ask me next week and I will say something else!


What is your favourite feature in the garden?
I don’t have any hard features such as structures. My favourite view out of the window is of the Acer Palmatum ‘Atropurpureum’, the deep red leaves are beautiful.

What is your favourite season and why?
Spring because of the promise of things to come (I like autumn as well).

What work gives you the most pleasure in the garden?
Weeding. I find that it gives me instant satisfaction when I stand back and look where I have been.


Any irritations in the garden. How do you cope?
Horsetail is the worst invasive weed. It is difficult to get rid of, but it does disappear in the winter!

What is your best gardening tool?
I have a grape fork that was given to me years ago. The prongs are only about five inches long now as they are worn out. It really needs replacing so if anyone has a well used one let me know.

Top Tip for spring?
Enjoy the garden. Look at what you have achieved not what needs doing.

Any plans for the future?
I would like to create a seating area in the sun and of course I will plan to move more plants around!


Horticultural.




CROP DIVERSITY

Photo:Rape crop in Newtowncunningham






There are a few crops that are set to alter the lanscape of Ireland over the coming years. Three favoutites are Rape, Flax and Elephant grass. All of these plants are set to make a huge impact on the land as the populartiy of alternative energy grows.

Rape (Brassica napus), is a bright yellow flowering member of the family Brassicaceae (mustard or cabbage family). Rapeseed is very widely cultivated throughout the world for the production of animal feed, vegetable oil for human consumption, and more than ever, biodiesel. It is also grown to protect the soil in winter and as a green manure.

The start of construction for Ireland’s first large-scale biodiesel production facility, at New Ross in County Wexford took place on the12th April, which if successful will start a chain of similar projects throughout the country. Green Biofuels Ireland intends to commence production of biodiesel from oil seed rape, recovered vegetable oil and animal fats in 2008. The raw materials for the biodiesel production will be sourced principally from the company’s shareholders as well as the Wexford Farmer’s Co-op, which has 4,000 farmer shareholders.


Flax (linum). Flax is grown both for its seed and for its fibers. Various parts of the plant have been used to make fabric, dye, paper, medicines, fishing nets and soap. The seeds produce a vegetable oil known as linseed oil or flaxseed oil. It is one of the oldest commercial oils, and solvent-processed flax seed oil has been used for centuries as a drying oil in painting and varnishing.

Elephant grass, (Miscanthus giganteus) or "E-grass", has been trialed as a biofuel in Europe since the early 1980s. It can grow to heights of more than 3.5 m in one growth season. Its dry weight annual yield can reach 25t/ha (10t/acre). The rapid growth, low mineral content and high biomass yield of Miscanthus make it a favorite choice as a biofuel. After harvest, it can be burned to produce heat and power turbines. The resulting CO2 emissions are equal to the amount of CO2 that the plant used up from the atmosphere during its growing phase, and thus the process is greenhouse gas neutral.

For more reading check out

http://www.irishseedsavers.ie/article.php?artid=70

http://www.gmfreeireland.org/

http://www.betterenergy.ie/transport.html

http://www.farrington-oils.co.uk/

Horticultural,environmental.



TAKING CUTTINGS

Photo: Phlomis fruticosa.



Propagation by stem cuttings is the most common way to increase your woody ornamental plants and herbs. Most common shrub cuttings root easily.

A greenhouse isn’t necessary to propagate stem cuttings but keeping the humidity high is important. If only a few cuttings are required then a plant pot covered with polythene (figure1) or an old plastic bottle with the base cut off would do the trick. For more cuttings, seed trays with a plastic lid would be ideal.(figure2)



TYPES OF STEM CUTTINGS
The four main types of stem cuttings are herbaceous, softwood, semi-hardwood and hardwood.

Herbaceous cuttings
These are made from non-woody, herbaceous plants such as chrysanthemums and dahlia. A 3-5 inch (7-10cm) piece of stem is cut from the parent plant. The leaves on the lower one third to one half are removed. A high percentage of the cuttings should root easily.

Softwood cuttings
These are prepared from soft, succulent, new growth of woody plants (rose or woodbine) just as it begins to harden (mature). The soft shoots are quite tender and should not be allowed to dry out. The time to get this new growth is around May and June.

Semi-hardwood cuttings
These cuttings are obtained in mid July to autumn. They will have partially mature wood on the current seasons growth. The wood is quite firm and the leaves are full sized. Many broadleaf evergreen shrubs are propagated this way.

Hardwood cuttings
These are taken from dormant, mature stems in autumn, winter and spring. The wood is firm and does not bend easily. Hardwood cuttings can be used for many evergreen plants as well as deciduous plants

TAKING CUTTINGS
Take cuttings in the early morning if possible, because the plant is fully turgid (full of water) the cuttings can be between 4-6 inches long (8-12cm) cutting just below a node on the stem. The lower third of the leaves can be removed. Large leaves on the cuttings could be cut in half to prevent too much water loss. Some people recommend a rooting hormone powder to increase the chances of the cuttings rooting. I have found very little evidence to prove the powder works except on Potentillas where it does seem to improve the chances of the cuttings taken. Use sterile potting compost that is low in nutrients, this helps the roots form faster as they search for food. One part peat compost to one part sand is a good mix. Push the cuttings in a third to half the length making sure they are the right way up. Water in and cover with plastic, being sure to avoid direct sunlight.
The newly rooted plants can be transplanted into pots to establish outdoors before they are put into their final position in the garden.


Horticultural.

CONTAINER CARE

Even though the weather is a bit on the wet side, check all your containers and baskets to see if they need a good water. The plants are getting bigger now and may need watering at least once a day. Check the plants for faded flowers and pinch out any dead heads, this will promote a new flush of colour. While your there, check for pesky greenfly and slug damage too.

Horticultural.

PLANTING DISTANCES

Photo: Stags horn sumach.



GIVE THEM SOME SPACE

On all these garden makeover programmes on telly, the presenters often buy mature plants for that instant effect. However most of us buy young shrubs – or take slips, to plant in our gardens. It is a lot cheaper and we get the pleasure of watching the plant mature. One question that I often get asked when customers buy shrubs from me is how far do you plant them apart. It’s all too tempting to put the shrubs too close together for an instant gratifying effect. Over the next few years these shrubs will reach maturity, and if they have been planted too close together they end up competing for light and space, which will affect the look of the plant. There are two alternatives –The first is to dig out some of the shrubs and move them to a more open spot. This would probably be the more sensible option, although make sure you move it at the right time of year (usually when it is not flowering or frosty). The second alternative is to get in there every year with a pair of heavy duty loppers and hack them back, this can destroy a lot of the shrubs natural beauty though, although if you have a small garden and you work the shape well it can look fine.

Getting the spacing right at the start is important. If you are in doubt there is a rough guide to help give you some idea of the approximate distances the shrubs can be planted apart.

Most shrubs: When planting two shrubs together add the mature height of both shrubs together then divide the answer by three.


For example: Hydrangea grows to at least 5 feet high (1.6m) planted next to an escallonia that grows to about 6 feet (2m) that will be (5 + 6 =) 11 feet (3.6m) divided by three is near enough four feet apart (1.2m).

Most trees: When planting two trees together add together the mature height of both tree and divide the answer by two.


For example: An ash tree can grow to 25 feet (8m) and planted next to the fast growing variegated poplar that can grow up to 30feet (10m), will need a distance of 27 feet (9m) between them. Maths lesson over –thank goodness!

If you have a small garden and want more than one tree planted in it then it would be wise to go for the smaller growing varieties.

Initially the borders will look pretty bare and unattractive. Sometimes if you go for the black webbing and gravel look then you can get away with using fewer plants. But if there is a lot of bare soil then “fill in” plants can be used between the shrubs such as Forsythia Ribes, Spirea and Mahonia, These will provide a colourful display and they can be progressively removed as the permanent shrubs grow in size.


A second alternative would be to plant in between the gaps with bulbs, annual plants, herbaceous perennials and ground cover plants.


Whichever you decide on it will look better than having an overcrowded shrub bed.


Horticultural.

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