HYDRANGEA CUTTINGS IN SPRING

Ian
Is it the right time of year to take cuttings from hydrangeas? If so how do I do it? Regards H.H by e-mail

Reply
Cuttings can be taken at this time of year. Take tip cuttings of this years growth off of the shrubs, these will root easily in sandy compost under polythene, even without rooting hormone. Cut back the leaves on the cuttings to 2in long, so they do not dry the cutting out or overlap too much in the pot. Overlapping foliage leads to yellowing and then to moulds and death. Remove the lower pairs of leaves from the cutting and push into the compost. Put them in a sheltered spot in the garden and next sprig you should have healthy new plants to pot on into separate containers. Remember you can change the colour of your shrub. If the soil is acid they will produce blue or purple flowers, alkaline will produce pink and red. White ones stay white whatever they are planted in.

Horticultural.

TULIP FIRE

Bob Gordon did a terrific talk and slide show at the Swilly Gardening Club last week. Or so I was told. I was a bit busy that evening and turned up at the club five minutes before chucking out time. Everyone that I talked to said that it was a great evening and there were bunches of snowdrops for everyone to take home at the end. I’ll suggest that the club invests in a camcorder, and then if I am late again I can watch the meeting at home later!

I have a backlog of gardening questions that have been E-mailed into me so I think we will have a gardener’s question time this week.

QUESTION TIME

Q. Some of my tulips have got black specks and yellow blotches on the leaves on and the growth is spindly. What is the problem? S.A. Letterkenny

A. This sounds like some of the bulbs have a fungal disease called Tulip Fire and things are not going to improve I’m afraid. When it comes to flowering time the buds might not open and if they do the flowers are likely to be distorted and covered with mould. The fungal spores called Botrytis tulipae can rest in the soil for years and infect other bulbs. Wet and windy weather are ideal conditions for the disease to spread.

CONTROL
· When you buy bulbs, make sure that there are no black specks on the scales; this is usually an indication of the disease.

· If you notice distorted foliage on the plant burn the leaves or preferably the whole plant straight away as the disease can spread rapidly.

· Do not plant bulbs in the same spot as the spores in the soil could affect other bulbs.If you dig your bulbs up at the end of the season, dip them into a fungicide solution to protect them for next year.

Horticultural.

DOWNY DAFFODILS

Photo: Narcissus fly like hyacinths as well.

Q. Everyone has a lovely show of daffodils in their garden but mine have no flowers, what is the problem. G.D. Carndonagh

A. There are a few reasons for your bulbs to be “blind”, as it is called. If the bulbs are recently planted, they might take a year to settle down. Check as well that the bulbs have been planted two or three times their height as planting too shallow can result in blindness. The other thing that I can think of is the narcissus fly (Merodon equestris) this pest also attacks snowdrops and hyacinths. If you lift a bulb and see a 15-20 cm long grub then this is the problem. During the summer, adult flies similar to small bumblebees, lay their eggs close to the neck of suitable bulbs. The larvae hatch and make their way to the base of the bulb and eat all the juicy tissue along the way.

CONTROLLING THE FLY

· Chemical control is generally a waste of time as by the time you have noticed them the damage has been done.
· When you buy the bulbs, check they are firm and free from pest and disease.
· Adult flies prefer warm and sunny spots in the garden, so plant any new bulbs in a shady or exposed area.
· Once the foliage has died down, brush soil into the gaps that the leaves have left as they die down. This will make it more difficult for the egg-laying females to get to the neck of the bulbS.

Horticultural.

DISAPPEARING SEEDLINGS

Q. I have started to grow seedlings in my small greenhouse. Every day there seems to be less of the plants. There is no mould or slug trail, what could be eating them? Thanks, Sue.

A. This sounds to me as if woodlice are getting an evening meal from your seedlings. Woodlice generally eat dead and decaying matter but they are partial to a seedling as well. Mature plants are spared as the woodlice don’t touch them but you will find them in damaged fruit.

CONTROL
· Clean the area so there are no damp places to hide.
· Don’t allow leaves and dead plant matter lying around in the garden.
· Put a cover on your trays this will act as a barrier.
· If all of this fails I know someone whose young lad eats woodlice like sweets, you could invite him around for the afternoon!

Environmental.

TULIPS-DID YOU KNOW?

Did you know the tulips natural homes are the Mediterranean and Asia (not Amsterdam)? Its name comes from the Persian and Turkish words for turban. Seeds were first brought to Europe in 1554 and within a few years they graced many gardens. Passion for the blooms led to the wild tulip mania in Holland in the seventeenth century, when fortunes were made and lost in the trade of bulbs. You can now get a six-pack for £1.20. My, how things change.

Horticultural.

SPRING WAFFLE

This week is probably the first week that I am sitting at the computer with no idea at all what I am going to talk about. Usually I have a notion of a particular topic to write about. But I think I must be suffering from potting blindness if there is such a thing.
When I’m potting up the summer bedding my mind tends to empty of all things, including remembering to eat and drink, the only factor that forces me into the house is when the light goes in the evening. The streetlight isn’t quite strong enough for me to differentiate between a seedling and a weed. I have thought about getting a light fitted but if I did that then I would probably not see the family until the end of summer!
I’ve made a bit more room in the tunnel by moving the Ten-week Stocks outside to brave the elements. They are classed as hardy biennials so they should be alright. I did make a slight error of judgment last week by putting out a few trays of tender perennials, the leaves of most of the plants have discoloured, which does them no harm but it does make them less attractive to look at for a while. The biggest disaster was the trailing ground ivy that are so popular in hanging baskets, these were looking wonderful under protection, but the cold north wind has checked them right back a day or two after they were put outside. They will emerge again but they wouldn’t sell in that condition. It’s a good job that there are some more still inside the tunnel that are still looking good. I tend not to put all of the plants out just in case something like this happens.

Having the heated propagator and heat in the tunnel has put me a month ahead establishing the summer bedding plants compared to last year, but I think caution is needed if they are to go outside. If you are starting early with the summer bedding it may be worth your while keeping an eye on the weather forecast for a while yet.
I’ve started to make up a few hanging baskets this week. I’ve opted for the biodegradable green mesh in favour of sphagnum moss again this year. One reason is that I don’t feel comfortable taking it from the hills as it is a natural resource and some creatures need it for their survival. Another reason is that slugs are sometimes hiding inside and pop out at night to munch on the lobelia! The main reason though is that I am obsessively tidy in the tunnel and when I have made the baskets the moss and pine needles drop all over the floor and on the young plants underneath, I spent half my time on my hands and knees with a dustpan and brush. It’s a strange reason really taking into consideration that my two lads have just bought themselves a pet rabbit and I’m ankle deep in sawdust and meadow hay at the moment, but in the house I don’t mind a bit of chaos. (It’s just this second dawned on me that rabbits eat plants, how on earth did the kids talk me into having a rabbit? Put it down to potting blindness!)

Anyway, back to the hanging baskets - If you are lucky enough to be able to hang them up in a bright, frost free place then an early start can be made getting them established. The tender perennials that I just mentioned can be put in as well as plants such as Fuchsia. These plants can flourish at this time of the year and the basket will be ready for the tender plants such as geraniums petunias and begonias in a few weeks time

On a final note, have you been through Buncrana recently? The spring planting around the roundabout at Fruit of the Loom is looking at it’s best with hundreds of yellow daffodils and the polyanthus and primulas are in their full glory. Some of the pansies look a bit sad at the side of the road; this is due to the salt being thrown onto the road during the last icy spell, the casualties of road safety, but you don’t even notice those with all the colour. The spring colour doesn’t stop there, all along the main roads heading through town along the shorefront and on the Cockhill Road there are colourful planters, tulips, new rose beds and freshly planted trees, you wouldn’t recognize the place. I’d like to thank the council for making the money available to improve the town, it is money very well spent. I have had loads of people comment on how the early colour has lifted their spirit. And of course I couldn’t leave without thanking the hard work and imagination of George and his trusty companion. I’m looking forward to see how colourful the summer planting will be; it might give me some ideas!

Well I must apologize, I’ve been sitting in front of the computer for a while now and I still can’t think of anything to write. Maybe I will be back to my normal self next week

Horticultural.