TOP TIPS

FRUIT TREES

Pick apples as soon as they are ripe, remembering that some varieties can be eaten straight from the tree, while others are best left for a time, stored in a cool place to reach their peak of perfection. Trap female winter moths as they climb up fruit trees to find a crevice to over-winter in by tightly wrapping grease bands around stems and greasing tree stakes.

Money saving tip: Container grown spring bulbs are better off without too much fertilizer so use a cheap compost and then feed after flowering

Time saving tip: This is the time to dig over the vegetable plot. Instead of clearing the old leaves to the compost heap, dig a trench and bury them. They will soon rot down and you have done the digging as well.

WINTER SALAD PLANTS M-P

More winter salad plants that we can all grow in the garden.

Montia sibirica. Pink purslane is a short-lived perennial, but it self-sows freely and maintains itself so well that it can be used as a ground cover plant. Only about 10cm tall, it is evergreen and both the leaves and flowers can be eaten. It has a fairly bland flavour, though it becomes somewhat bitter in hot dry weather. M. perfoliata, the miner's lettuce, is an annual that self-sows freely and is also usually available all through the winter. Both of these plants are extremely hardy, they are native to Alaska and Siberia where they can be harvested from under the snow even in the depths of winter.

Myrrhis odorata. Our native Sweet Cicely has a delightful aniseed flavour and it goes very well as flavouring in a mixed salad. It dies down in early winter but if you are lucky you can start picking it again in early February. The seed is said to have a short viability and is best sown as soon as it is ripe. A well-grown plant is about 1 metre tall and wide.

Peltaria alliacea. A very easily grown plant, it has a rather strong garlic/mustard flavour that some people adore in salads. It becomes much more bitter in the summer. An evergreen herb about 10cm tall it spreads freely once established.

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GUNNERA

Check out how gunnera can be protected over winter and how invasive it can be

GLOSSARY OF GARDENING WORDS

Have you ever been in the company of someone and can go for ages and not have a clue what they are talking about. This happens when the person is fanatical about a subject that you know very little or nothing about. The same problem can arise when I get on my soapbox and start using terms that are common in the gardening world, but rarely used anywhere else. Such as the word loam, this just means a mixture of sand, clay and organic matter…soil in other words. Using key words is a great idea when you are trying to charge customers more for your time as a landscape gardener or garden designer, the same is probably true in most professions. An old lecturer told me once that all I had to do was to learn three or four Latin words for plants and if used at the right time in a conversation would make me sound like a professional.

Here are a few words to use if you want to impress the neighbours.

Aerate -This is when the soil is loosened with a fork or machine to allow air and water into the ground
Biennial –This is a plant that usually lives for two years. It flowers and going to seed in the second year.
Dormancy is when a plant has a rest in winter.
Elaeagnus ebbingei -A hardy variegated shrub.
Germinate means the sprouting of a seed.
Herbaceous a plant with soft, rather than woody stems.
Hydroponics. This is when a plant is grown in a liquid instead of soil.
Perennial means a non-woody plant that lives longer than two years.
Topiary is where shrubs are pruned to a particular shape, for example animals.
Variegated leaves have two or more different colours.

Armed with these few words you can lean over the garden fence and come out with some gems like…. “ Hello, what wet weather we are having, we could almost be growing our biennial plants by hydroponics! I’ve just been aerating the lawn with a view to putting in an herbaceous border. My recently germinated perennial plants are dormant at present but I’m hoping to put them in too. I’m also hoping to do a bit of topiary on my variegated elaeagnus ebbingei”…. Come out with stuff like that and I can guarantee the neighbours wont keep you talking, they will be making any excuse to leave!

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TOOL CHECK

I’m looking to buy a garden shed. I have been pricing them up recently and think that it would be a good idea to invest in one. The main reason is that it can house all the tools that I have that are lying around in my new garden.

I moved house over the past couple of weeks and I no longer have the luxury of a 30-foot polythene tunnel to dump everything in. The vegetable patch that I have worked hard to create is having to fend for itself as well. My new garden is the size of an average living room and as I speak is under three inches of water. The garden has very little grass, absolutely no topsoil and gets about two minutes worth of sunshine first thing in the morning as the sun comes up. It is a true challenge and I am looking forward to doing something with it - at the moment I favour concrete slabs!

TOOL CHECK
Now that the autumn is moving into winter, it is the time to give the garden tools the once over. Firstly, check your stock. Count up your tools and make sure that none of them are left out over the winter. Bring them in and check on their condition. There may be tools that need new handles or a bit sticking back on that have dropped off. Throw away any tools that are damaged or broken, these are dangerous and are just accidents waiting to happen. Scrub the tools clean with soapy water, dry them thoroughly and wipe them down with an oily rag. Another good idea for spades, forks and trowels is to have a bucket filled with sand and some old engine oil poured into it. Push the tool in a few times, the sand acts as an abrasive cleaner and the oil stops the metal from rusting. You can use it in summer too in between using the equipment.

Make sure that the tools are hung up properly. Tools stacked in corners or hanging from the ceiling are also very dangerous, especially when you are rooting around the shed in the middle of the night looking for the lost Christmas decorations. If you have outside taps make sure that the pipes are insulated against the frost. Disconnect the hosepipe and drain the water out of it. When storing the pipe try to roll it around an old car wheel (minus the tyre!) or invest in a proper drum from the garden supply shops. Don’t hang them on a nail, as the sharp edge will damage the pipe and more than likely split it too.


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ME AND MY MOTOR-CHANTAL BUSAK

We have a pedigree motor this week. Chantal Busek from Moville is the proud owner of a Silver Toyota Celica 1.8 VVTi. Chantal is the reservations manager and E-commerce controller for the Carlton group and works from the Carlton Redcastle hotel. Chantal might have a busy demanding job but she still manages to find the time to polish her beautiful car and run a few marathons!


What made you choose a sports car?
I think that every girl should have a sports car at some time in her life. I drove a Celica owned by a friend of my partner and was hooked, I just had to have one. I have only had it for three months but I now think of it as an extension of my boyfriend!

Any plans to change?
No chance! These cars are hard to find.

Did you buy it privately or through a garage?
I took a bit of a risk and bought it privately. I looked at all of the websites until the right car came up. When I saw it we drove to Dublin that moment to buy it. Specialist motors tends to be sold straight away and I missed a couple before this one. I am pleased though as the car I now have was a better price and had the complete sports pack.

What is in the sports pack?
Loads of stuff! Lowered suspension, extra power in the engine, air conditioning, alloy wheels, leather seats, slide back sunroof and bucket seats for a start.

Is it reliable?
Extremely reliable. It has very low mileage and is like a new car.

How often do you wash it?
Not as often as I should but I do find that silver doesn’t show up the dirt. I shouldn’t worry though as dirt can be fashionable. Did you know there is now dirt in a can? It is used by city folk who have off road cars and never see the countryside!

What would you do to help motorists?
Put some drivers through their test again! Concentrating on how to cope with roundabouts and parking.

What would you like to be driving around in?
My Toyota Celica, thank you!

Motoring.

TRUCK

AUTUMN IS COMING

Check the grass to see nothing strange is growing on it

Autumn is coming and the grass growth is slowing down. My grass managed to reach the height of about two feet this year, due to neglect on my part. Every spring I make the resolution that I’m going to keep on top of the grass cutting by going out every week on a particular day, (Sunday this year) and cut the grass. I did this for the first couple of weeks in spring when the growth began in earnest. Then I forgot, or became distracted by something else important like digging up carrots or taking the dog for a walk, and before I knew it the grass was up to my knees. When this happens, the strimmer comes out to tackle the problem and over the growing season the area I strim gets smaller and smaller in ever decreasing circles, until there’s just enough short grass to put the patio table and chairs on. This week, come rain or shine I will be out there with the strimmer to get the grass down to a manageable level, leaving it looking tidy and cared for over the winter.

NEW LAWNS
This time of year is ideal to get a new lawn established. The cooler, wetter weather is ideal for the grass seed to germinate and you will be spared the job of having to water the ground in dry spells. There’s still enough heat in the sun for the grass to establish itself as well, before winter sets in. If you have taken the time and trouble to prepare a level, stone free seed bed (believe me it is a lot of work preparing the ground for a lawn!) then it might be an idea to leave it for a couple of weeks after you have prepared it. The reason for this isn’t to wait until your back has repaired itself, but if you wait for a while all the annual seeds on the top of the soil will have germinated. These can then be hoed down, creating a weed free bed to sow the grass seed on. This method is known as “ Stale seedbed” and it also is helpful to spot, and remove the odd perennial weed that was left in the soil such as dandelions, docks and creeping buttercups.

HERBS
I’ve been tidying the herb garden this week. Some of the plants are looking as though they need to be lifted and divided. This goes for most perennials, after a while the plants die in the middle so when the plant is lifted, the middle part can be thrown onto the compost heap and the fresh parts of the plant can then be divided up and replanted.

I’ve got quite a bit of basil still in the tunnel and with the nights getting colder I’ll probably bring some indoors for a bit of protection against the elements. I haven’t enough windowsills to accommodate all of the plants so the rest are going to make a basic pesto sauce. The basil leaves will be mixed with some olive oil and garlic, and then I’ll put the mixture into those ice cube containers that live in the freezer. This way I can take out what I need over the coming months.

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ELDER

I’ve noticed berries on the elder trees are ripening nicely. The elder tree is more like a sprawling bush than a tree really, which is handy when it comes to picking the fruit. Most people associate elderberries with wine making. I know I have made a few bottles before and they were delicious…. Well they were better than the previous attempts at making wine anyway.

My brother and myself, being inventive teenagers, decided to make a brew and store some wine in a wardrobe in our bedroom away from parental eyes. We were a bit limited for ingredients so we decided to make the concoction out of trebor mints and polo mint, which were easily available from the local shop. These were added to the water, yeast and sugar. After they were mixed and left for a few weeks to ferment we put the liquid into bottles and screwed on the tops. They lived happily in the wardrobe for another few weeks until the pressure got too much. Whilst we were at school one day the bottles exploded, sending the nurtured wine and glass all over the clothes in the wardrobe and flooded the bedroom carpet. That put an end to our bootlegging business…

Back to the elders. The trees are very tolerant of pollution so they will grow practically anywhere. They have attractive flowers that come out around May to June. These can be covered in batter and dipped into hot oil for a minute until they are brown and crispy. They smell a bit like cat spray when they are fresh, but cooked they taste delicious!

The flowers can also be made into a drink, similar to lemonade if sugar is added or if it is mixed with equal parts of yarrow and peppermint, a refreshing hot drink. Later in the year, from now until October, the berries ripen. These berries are rich in vitamins C and A They are good for making wine as I have mentioned and also syrups, jams, and chutney. Herbalists have used all of the elder for years. The tree is shrouded in ancient mystery, one being that you shouldn’t cut down or burn the wood without asking the elder mother, who lives inside the tree. If you have ever tried to burn elder wood you’ll know how reluctant it is to burn, maybe it’s true… I’ll ask the elder mother in future!There are other uses for the plant. The leaves can be used to make a brew to protect plants from aphids and other pests. Old bark makes black dye, the leaves make green dye and the berries can make either blue or purple dye, depending on how ripe they are.

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JOBS TO DO IN AUTUMN

AUTUMN IS APPROACHING

This month as autumn approaches it is time to give some thought to getting the garden ready for the colder months ahead. It is an ideal time to begin getting plants ready for the winter and to plant spring bulbs, harvest fruit and vegetables.

Plant bare-rooted, deciduous trees and shrubs now, during their dormant season. Some people have a fear of buying bare rooted plants, but if you buy them as soon as they appear in the shops/garden centres, there is no problem at all, they are much cheaper than potted ones and will establish quickly, especially if care is taken in soil preparation.

Plant spring bulbs as long as the ground is workable

If any major tree pruning is required to remove large branches, now is the time to do it. Remember, major jobs require a tree surgeon.

Keep an eye out for unwanted seedlings of native trees and pull them out while still small. This will save a lot of trouble later on.

The bulbs of spring flowering tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and crocus are planted during the autumn months of September, October and November. Select good firm, disease free bulbs. Plant the bulbs three times deeper than the greatest diameter of the bulb. For example, crocus bulbs that usually have about a one-inch diameter should be planted three inches deep. The bulbs will grow and flower best in well-drained soil.


Pot up some spring flowering bulbs for indoor colour during the winter. Store the pots in a cool, dark place, until new growth emerges from the soil, and then move them to a bright window.

TAKING CUTTINGS
Take semi-hardwood cuttings of holly, cherry laurel and evergreen conifers. Select a stem- tip from the current season's growth. Cut straight above a node to give a cutting 10-15cm in length. Remove all but the top two leaves. Slice 3cm of bark from one side of the cutting at the base. Dip the wound in hormone rooting powder, then insert into cuttings compost or a free draining mixture of peat and bark. Ensure the cutting will stand upright. Firm in and water well. Kept humid and frost free (in a cold frame or propagator) cuttings will root in the winter and can be potted on in spring. A good hint for you, put your cuttings around the edge of the pot, this way, they will not get too water bound, and will root better and quicker.

As perennials fade away, mark their locations with small sticks. Some might not be apparent after the winter and might be disrupted by spring cultivating.

Herbaceous plants can be tidied up and cut back now. Don't be in too much of a hurry, though, as the 'skeletons' of many plants can be very decorative in their own right. If your soil is light, you can lift, divide and replant many perennials over the next couple of months, but only when it's not too wet.

Plants divided in very wet weather or planted in heavy soil are prone to rot.

Plant spring bedding now so that it gets a chance to establish. This will give an earlier display next year.

If you want to add some colour to the garden this winter, try pansies. The pansies are particularity nice to plant when planting bulbs, because they reach their peak of beauty in the springtime, just about the same time the bulbs bloom.

Perennials can be started from seed this month. Simply scatter the seeds in a row or in open beds. Then the young seedlings can be transplanted into a permanent spot next spring.

Put in new heathers. Plant them an inch deeper in the soil than in the pot so they are nice and sturdy.

IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN
Dig up your rosemary, basil, tarragon, oregano, marjoram, thyme, parsley, and chives to grow them inside as houseplants. Keep them in a cool, sunny spot, and allow the soil to dry out before watering. Snip off the leaves as needed in the kitchen, but do not strip them completely

Tidy up your mint, I have mine in a pot, and every year or so, I empty out, and remove the older part of the plant, and pot up the younger growth.

Cut and store marrows before the frosts.

Put cloches over late salad crops such as lettuce and radish to keep them cropping. Look out for slugs

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JOBS TO DO IN OCTOBER

I see that a local council in England have decided to chop down the chestnut trees that line the roads around the town. The wisdom behind this is because it could endanger cars when children throw the sticks to get the conkers down. Another reason mentioned was that the sticks that are thrown could land on the unfortunate child’s head. The council are putting in what they call “Less dangerous trees” to try and ease the problem. It goes to show that the world of horticulture can be a hazardous place. I have chosen some safer jobs to do in the garden this month as we are starting to wind down the garden for the winter. If you feel really energetic you can start by taking down any tired and sad looking hanging baskets and pot up some colourful winter flowers that are appearing in the garden centres now.


JOBS TO DO IN OCTOBER
Plant nerine bulbs and divide old clumps after flowering. The best place for the heat and sun they need to flower is at the foot of a south-facing wall. Plant the bulbs with the nose just showing above the soil and give protection in cold areas. Nerines are one of the longer lasting flowers at this time of the year and they make excellent cut flowers for the table.

Finish planting spring bulbs in the next couple of weeks. Tulips can be planted this month. Plant dwarf narcissi, species crocuses and reticulata irises in pots and outdoors for late-winter colour. Use peat free potting compost with some coarse sand or grit mixed in.

Lift the corms of gladioli when the leaves turn yellow, cut off the stems, dry the corms, rub clean, label the varieties and store in a cool, mouse-free place.

Check ties on recently planted young trees to see if they have become tight and restrictive. There should always be a little play there. New research shows that trees grow better if they don’t have a stake. If your tree has been in for a couple of years and looks secure, take the stake and tie out altogether.

When the leaves have been blackened by frost, dahlia tubers should be dug up. Cut off the stems at 2-3in above the tuber, remove all the loose soil, and dry them in an airy place. Dust with flowers of sulphur, and label and store in a cool dark place. The easiest way to apply sulphur is to shake the tubers in a plastic bag with handful of flowers of sulphur. Large old clumps of tubers are better divided next spring, when you plant them out again. Division now only makes wounds for mould to enter.

Dry off potted tuberous begonias under cover, and when the stems have yellowed and fallen away (do not cut or pull them off), store the tubers in a cool dark place, either just as they are, potted in dry soil, or with the soil and roots cleaned off, and dusted with sulphur.


Gather fallen leaves regularly. If you do not have a compost heap, put damp leaves into bin-liners and store for eight-12 months. The resulting leaf mould makes excellent mulch. Alternatively you can put the leaves straight into the soil around your shrubs and in the borders. Work them in gently to stop them blowing away and the worms will do the rest

IN THE VEGGIE PATCH
Lift root crops such as beetroots, carrots and main crop potatoes and store in vermin-proof bins (clean metal dustbins with lids will do), layered between fresh coir fibre or dry sand. Make sure you remove all damaged or rotten tubers before you store them, as the rot will quickly spread to the other vegetables. Harvest pumpkins, marrows and squashes. They will store well if kept dry, cool and frost-free in the garage.

ALPINES
Top up grit mulches around alpine plants to provide a free-draining layer between the foliage and the ground. Some alpines will need a haircut if they look as though they are going to go mouldy in the damp weather. Weed out any unwanted plants, especially creeping buttercup as they can completely ruin the bed in a very short space of time.

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