Saturday 13 October 2007

JOBS TO DO IN OCTOBER


I see that a local council in England have decided to chop down the chestnut trees that line the roads around the town. The wisdom behind this is because it could endanger cars when children throw the sticks to get the conkers down. Another reason mentioned was that the sticks that are thrown could land on the unfortunate child’s head. The council are putting in what they call “Less dangerous trees” to try and ease the problem. It goes to show that the world of horticulture can be a hazardous place. I have chosen some safer jobs to do in the garden this month as we are starting to wind down the garden for the winter. If you feel really energetic you can start by taking down any tired and sad looking hanging baskets and pot up some colourful winter flowers that are appearing in the garden centres now.


JOBS TO DO IN OCTOBER
Plant nerine bulbs and divide old clumps after flowering. The best place for the heat and sun they need to flower is at the foot of a south-facing wall. Plant the bulbs with the nose just showing above the soil and give protection in cold areas. Nerines are one of the longer lasting flowers at this time of the year and they make excellent cut flowers for the table.

Finish planting spring bulbs in the next couple of weeks. Tulips can be planted this month. Plant dwarf narcissi, species crocuses and reticulata irises in pots and outdoors for late-winter colour. Use peat free potting compost with some coarse sand or grit mixed in.

Lift the corms of gladioli when the leaves turn yellow, cut off the stems, dry the corms, rub clean, label the varieties and store in a cool, mouse-free place.

Check ties on recently planted young trees to see if they have become tight and restrictive. There should always be a little play there. New research shows that trees grow better if they don’t have a stake. If your tree has been in for a couple of years and looks secure, take the stake and tie out altogether.

When the leaves have been blackened by frost, dahlia tubers should be dug up. Cut off the stems at 2-3in above the tuber, remove all the loose soil, and dry them in an airy place. Dust with flowers of sulphur, and label and store in a cool dark place. The easiest way to apply sulphur is to shake the tubers in a plastic bag with handful of flowers of sulphur. Large old clumps of tubers are better divided next spring, when you plant them out again. Division now only makes wounds for mould to enter.

Dry off potted tuberous begonias under cover, and when the stems have yellowed and fallen away (do not cut or pull them off), store the tubers in a cool dark place, either just as they are, potted in dry soil, or with the soil and roots cleaned off, and dusted with sulphur.


Gather fallen leaves regularly. If you do not have a compost heap, put damp leaves into bin-liners and store for eight-12 months. The resulting leaf mould makes excellent mulch. Alternatively you can put the leaves straight into the soil around your shrubs and in the borders. Work them in gently to stop them blowing away and the worms will do the rest

IN THE VEGGIE PATCH
Lift root crops such as beetroots, carrots and main crop potatoes and store in vermin-proof bins (clean metal dustbins with lids will do), layered between fresh coir fibre or dry sand. Make sure you remove all damaged or rotten tubers before you store them, as the rot will quickly spread to the other vegetables. Harvest pumpkins, marrows and squashes. They will store well if kept dry, cool and frost-free in the garage.

ALPINES
Top up grit mulches around alpine plants to provide a free-draining layer between the foliage and the ground. Some alpines will need a haircut if they look as though they are going to go mouldy in the damp weather. Weed out any unwanted plants, especially creeping buttercup as they can completely ruin the bed in a very short space of time.


Horticultural.


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