MAKE YOUR OWN BOTTLE GARDEN (week2)
Last week we looked at how to make up a bottle garden (or terrarium). There are four layers that make up the base; these are gravel, charcoal moss and finally topped off with sterilised soil. This week we will look at the types of plants that will be suitable to go into the container and the arranging. The great thing about buying plants for terrariums and bottle gardens is that the plants will need to be as small as possible. This means that you will not have to pay a lot of money to stock your container. Most garden centres and DIY shops sell these plants for around €1 each so it is very affordable. Although I have made a list here it concentrates more on how little or how much light the plants can tolerate you will probably have to experiment with the plants that are on offer in the shops. Try the carnivorous plants if you feel adventurous, they will be more expensive though. Most of the plants will outgrow their positions eventually so do not be afraid to move them around when necessary.
TYPES OF PLANTS SUITABLE (AND WIDELY AVAILABLE) FOR A BOTTLE GARDEN
Plants that need low light
Swedish Ivy
Birds nest Sansevaria
Maidenhair spleenwort
Plants that need moderate light
Heart-leaved philodendron
Maidenhair fern
Miniature peperomia
Prayer plant
Spider plant
English ivy
Pitcher Plant
Plants that need bright light
Oxalis (shamrock)
Rosary vine
Venus fly trap
SETTING THE RIGHT SCENE
Your new landscape should be structured and set up for the best visual effect from the viewer’s point of view. For example, if the garden will be viewed from all sides, a large plant should be planted in the middle, with lower plants around it. If your terrarium will primarily be viewed from only one side, the tallest plant should be placed near the rear of the container, with lower plants in the foreground, in much the same way that a hanging basket will be made up. It is sometimes a good idea to use something special as a focal point in the landscape, such as a rock or stick to simulate boulders or logs. In these cases, or if you should decide to include a small statue as part of the garden, be sure that it is about the same scale as the plantings.
Before you do any planting, take your time and make certain that the arrangement of your plants creates the desired effect. While they are still in their pots, set the plants around inside the terrarium. (In narrow mouthed containers, it is a better idea to put your ideas down on paper.) Adjust the soil level to create hills at the back, and valleys in the foreground. Move your logs and boulders to different locations within the landscape. Step back a foot or two and see if your arrangement creates the desired effect. If not, do a little more rearranging, and check it again. When you decide that you have created the right “scene”, you are ready to do your planting.
PLANTING UP THE TERRARIUM
No special tools are needed for planting your terrarium, unless you are using a bottle or other narrow mouthed containers. Most likely, you will use a kitchen spoon as your shovel, a fork as your rake, and small scissors as your shears. Narrow-mouthed terrariums require special tools to get the plant down into the terrarium and into the right spot. (i.e. a funnel to add the soil, long slender sticks to dig with, and some type of “grabber” (unless you are good with chopsticks) to lower the plants in, and to actually plant them.)
The lid should then be placed on your terrarium. Normally, a clear sheet of glass is used, but you may have to use your imagination to find the appropriate lid. (clear dishes, plastic sheeting, etc.) Check it frequently for the appearance of condensation on the glass. If large water drops appear on the glass, the container should be left open for a while, until any excess moisture evaporates. In some cases, it may be necessary to keep the lid slightly opened, to allow for fresh air circulation. However, a balanced terrarium should have a certain amount of moisture on the glass.
A completely enclosed terrarium requires little or no watering. If it is not totally enclosed, you may have to water on a weekly or monthly basis (more often for completely open terrariums or dish gardens). The addition of water only becomes necessary if no condensation accumulates on the glass. When water is indeed needed, it should only be added a small amount at a time, since there is no place for the surplus water to run off. Generally, terrariums should not need fertilising, but if the plants start to appear malnourished, you may feed them using a very weak mixture (1/4 strength) of an all purpose house plant food.
Horticultural.
Last week we looked at how to make up a bottle garden (or terrarium). There are four layers that make up the base; these are gravel, charcoal moss and finally topped off with sterilised soil. This week we will look at the types of plants that will be suitable to go into the container and the arranging. The great thing about buying plants for terrariums and bottle gardens is that the plants will need to be as small as possible. This means that you will not have to pay a lot of money to stock your container. Most garden centres and DIY shops sell these plants for around €1 each so it is very affordable. Although I have made a list here it concentrates more on how little or how much light the plants can tolerate you will probably have to experiment with the plants that are on offer in the shops. Try the carnivorous plants if you feel adventurous, they will be more expensive though. Most of the plants will outgrow their positions eventually so do not be afraid to move them around when necessary.
TYPES OF PLANTS SUITABLE (AND WIDELY AVAILABLE) FOR A BOTTLE GARDEN
Plants that need low light
Swedish Ivy
Birds nest Sansevaria
Maidenhair spleenwort
Plants that need moderate light
Heart-leaved philodendron
Maidenhair fern
Miniature peperomia
Prayer plant
Spider plant
English ivy
Pitcher Plant
Plants that need bright light
Oxalis (shamrock)
Rosary vine
Venus fly trap
SETTING THE RIGHT SCENE
Your new landscape should be structured and set up for the best visual effect from the viewer’s point of view. For example, if the garden will be viewed from all sides, a large plant should be planted in the middle, with lower plants around it. If your terrarium will primarily be viewed from only one side, the tallest plant should be placed near the rear of the container, with lower plants in the foreground, in much the same way that a hanging basket will be made up. It is sometimes a good idea to use something special as a focal point in the landscape, such as a rock or stick to simulate boulders or logs. In these cases, or if you should decide to include a small statue as part of the garden, be sure that it is about the same scale as the plantings.
Before you do any planting, take your time and make certain that the arrangement of your plants creates the desired effect. While they are still in their pots, set the plants around inside the terrarium. (In narrow mouthed containers, it is a better idea to put your ideas down on paper.) Adjust the soil level to create hills at the back, and valleys in the foreground. Move your logs and boulders to different locations within the landscape. Step back a foot or two and see if your arrangement creates the desired effect. If not, do a little more rearranging, and check it again. When you decide that you have created the right “scene”, you are ready to do your planting.
PLANTING UP THE TERRARIUM
No special tools are needed for planting your terrarium, unless you are using a bottle or other narrow mouthed containers. Most likely, you will use a kitchen spoon as your shovel, a fork as your rake, and small scissors as your shears. Narrow-mouthed terrariums require special tools to get the plant down into the terrarium and into the right spot. (i.e. a funnel to add the soil, long slender sticks to dig with, and some type of “grabber” (unless you are good with chopsticks) to lower the plants in, and to actually plant them.)
The lid should then be placed on your terrarium. Normally, a clear sheet of glass is used, but you may have to use your imagination to find the appropriate lid. (clear dishes, plastic sheeting, etc.) Check it frequently for the appearance of condensation on the glass. If large water drops appear on the glass, the container should be left open for a while, until any excess moisture evaporates. In some cases, it may be necessary to keep the lid slightly opened, to allow for fresh air circulation. However, a balanced terrarium should have a certain amount of moisture on the glass.
A completely enclosed terrarium requires little or no watering. If it is not totally enclosed, you may have to water on a weekly or monthly basis (more often for completely open terrariums or dish gardens). The addition of water only becomes necessary if no condensation accumulates on the glass. When water is indeed needed, it should only be added a small amount at a time, since there is no place for the surplus water to run off. Generally, terrariums should not need fertilising, but if the plants start to appear malnourished, you may feed them using a very weak mixture (1/4 strength) of an all purpose house plant food.
Horticultural.
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