Keeping Blackspot on roses at bay

It looked like autumn last week as the dead leaves damaged by the winds floated down to the ground. Don’t let this fool you into thinking that things are slowing down in the garden. Quite the opposite. Everything’s shooting up. There’s a new problem coming to light, blackspot on roses. I have asked the help of James Kilkelly from Gardenplansireland to give us some help at combating this perennial problem... organically.

Halt the rise of black spot, organically.

Its back! Black spot has once again raised its ugly mottled head to infect the roses of Ireland (including mine), causing leaf loss, and die back of the plants stems. Black spot (Diplocarpon rosae) is a fungal disease encouraged by much the same conditions that encourage potato blight, which are warm, moist locations with stagnant air. Most Irish roses especially those grown in areas of high rainfall are destined at some stage of their growing life to play host to blackspot.

Maybe you are lucky enough to have never had a run in with blackspot, and therefore you require an introduction to help you identify this plant ill. Blackspot is aptly named, initially appearing as purple or black circular spots with yellow-fringed halos. Over a short period of time these halos spread and join up causing the leaves they appear on to yellow and shed prematurely.

Although blackspot will rarely kill a rose outright, it will however leave you with a sickly, twiggy rose, which flowers poorly due to a lack of its life-giving leaves. Now, there are many combined chemical products available in your garden centre for the control of blackspot, for example Rose-clear, Benlate or Multirose, to name a few. But you may actually have all the raw materials already within your kitchen to create your own homemade, organic and most importantly safe black spot spray.


Method 1, Milk.
Walk across your kitchen as far your fridge. Mix equal parts milk and water, then apply this each week with an atomiser or a sprayer to the upper and lower section of the roses leaves. This milky solution causes an invisible and friendly fungus to form, which will help prevent the formation of the dreaded black spot.


Method 2, Baking soda.
Mix one tablespoon of baking soda or baking powder into one litre of water and add a drop or two of washing up liquid for stickiness. Again, apply this each week with an atomiser or a sprayer to the upper and lower sides of the roses leaves. The baking soda (Sodium bicarbonate) causes the rose leaf surface to become exceedingly alkaline which again prevents the blackspot from thriving. Both method 1 and 2 are effective only if used at the first sign of symptoms.

Method 3, The rake and clippers.
It is important to rake up the withered rose leaves and petals that litter your beds and borders, as these can act as a breeding ground for the blackspot fungus. Also, pick or snip off any live leaves that exhibit black spots, as well as looking unsightly they aid the spread of the disease. All infected rose leaves and clippings should be burnt not composted.

Method 4, The shovel.
When all is said and done, probably the best method of organic black spot control is to plant roses resistant to the disease. And there are quite a few.
Black spot resistant roses include...
Amber Queen (golden yellow),
Iceberg (white),
Trumpeter (red),
Electron (Deep pink),
Helmut Schmidt (Golden yellow),
Just Joey (Creamy peach),
Keepsake (Dark pink),
Las Vegas (Dark peach with yellow highlights),
Peter Frankenfeld (Dark pink),
Polarstern (White),
Precious Platinum (Medium red),
Silver Jubilee (Salmon pink),
Voodoo (Orange),
Love (Crimson red with white backs),
New Year (Orange),
Tournament of Roses (Rose pink),
Bonica (Rose Pink),
Escapade (Mauve-pink),
Europeana (Dark red),
Impatient (Orange-red),
Liverpool Echo (Orange),
Matangi (Red),
Orangeade (Orange-red),
Play Girl (Bright pink),
Playboy (Reddish orange),
Redgold (Golden yellow edged in dark pink),
Regensberg (Pink and white),
Sarabande (Orange-red),
Sexy Rexy (Rose-pink),
Showbiz (Scarlet red),
Viva (Red).


Top Tip
Gareth Austin from Newtowncunningham has a good tip for us too.
“I have another practice on keeping roses disease free, and it comes from the old method of preventing blight on potatoes.
Use Sulphate of Potash in Spring and early summer as a feed for the roses. The growth which develops is less soft and more disease resistant. Also as the foliage is harder they are less prone to pest attack. This method can also be used on your spuds. Mulch in Autumn with Turf or wood ash as a soil improver.”

Photo: Wild roses (dog rose) don’t seem to suffer from blackspot although the leaves did go brown after the cold winds recently.

Gardening Courses at Milkwood Farm, Co. Leitrim

Gardening Courses at Milkwood Farm,

Co. Leitrim

2011

Milkwood Farm is the home and garden of Klaus, Joanna and their four children with Benwiskin on one side and acres of wild bogland all around. With draining the land and composting the soil a garden can be given birth.


Details



Saturday 19th March: Beginner’s hands-on Gardening Course
A practical workshop on how to start your vegetable garden. This workshop will involve digging, sowing, planting, making beds, composting. It is aimed at the complete novices to vegetable gardening.


Saturday 30th April: Your Self-Sufficient Garden
Learn how to grow nearly all the food your family eats. Learn how to set up, prepare and plant your own organic vegetable garden. Practical demonstrations will be carried out so all participants get hands on ideas for their own gardens.

Saturday 14th May: Growing in Polytunnels/Greenhouses
A polytunnel or glasshouse extends the season for many crops, providing something to harvest all year round. It can also be used for tender vegetable crops, cut herbs and unusual tropical plants. This course will cover ground preparation, crop rotation, propagation, soil fertility management, pest and disease prevention and control.


Saturday 18th June: Grow Your Own Vegetables and Fruit
This course will take you through the season from garden to larder. Learn of the wide variety which you can grow on your doorstep. This will cover crop rotations, sowing plans and learn how it is possible to grow any vegetable and fruit that takes your fancy.

Saturday 17th September: Growing in Polytunnels/Greenhouses
Course details see Saturday 14th May.


All courses will be held at Milkwood Farm, Tawley, Co. Leitrim by Klaus Laitenberger former Head Gardener at the Organic Centre and Lissadell House.

All courses run from 10.30am – 4.00pm

Price €80 which includes coffee and scones on arrival and a home cooked organic lunch washed down with a glass of wine.

For more information and booking phone Joanna or Klaus at 071-9131855 or 087 7612251

SEE THE WEBSITE or e-mail us on: milkwood.farm@hotmail.comThis e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it



Complete Vegetable Gardening Course
8 full days - €600

This course is aimed at anybody who wants to learn how to grow healthy organic vegetables, salads, herbs and fruit for the home garden. It is suitable for the complete beginner as well as for the more advanced gardeners. During each day there will be a practical element where participants will learn what to do in their garden each month. There will also be theoretical and practical sessions on topics such as planning, rotation, soil fertility, composting, green manuring, organic pest, disease and weed control, growing in tunnels and greenhouses, fruit and herb growing

Day 1: 12th March

Day 2: 2nd April

Day 3: 7th May

Day 4: 11th June

Day 5: 2nd July

Day 6: 6th August

Day 7: 3rd September

Day 8: 1st October

Courses at other locations for gardening groups can also be organised. Please CONTACT US for more details.  See the WEBSITE

GIY Inishowen Launch

 
Event Date/Time: 14.12.2010 from 7:00 PM to 9:00 PM
Host: Donal Doherty
Location: Harrys Restaurant Bridgend

Interested in growing your own food, but don't know how to get started or need a little bit extra help? A great solution is coming to Inishowen with GIY (Grow it Yourself) Ireland, a new not-for-profit initiative that is literally sweeping the nation.

Michael Kelly is the man behind the network that now has 80 groups around Ireland and helps almost 6,000 people grow their own food. The aim is to provide people locally with the practical skills they need to grow successfully.

GIY Inishowen will launch at Harry's Restaurant, Bridgend starting this Tuesday 14th December at 7pm. Regular meetings will take place to talk, learn from each other and exchange tips, produce and war stories. Regular expertise will be in the form of some of Harry's local experienced growers, Whiteoaks Organic Community Centre & An Grianan Organics.

"This is a perfect opportunity for people to get involved on a community basis & learn more about making the most of the space around the house & growing your own vegetables. It's great to see so many more polytunnels & enthusiasts around Inishowen, but there are so many more that would like to get started or share experiences & learn more. It is totally free to attend and it will be as practical and light hearted as possible. There will always be free tea/coffee & nibbles served at each meeting.

The timing is perfect as Harry's are just developing our own greenhouse & growing plans for 2011, so people are welcome to join while we learn too! It's great that Michael is travelling up for the launch, his expertise is second to none" says Donal Doherty, Manager, Harry's.

"I'm delighted to be coming to Inishowen and see the network of GIY expand into Donegal for the first time" says Michael Kelly, Founder GIY. "This is a great opportunity for people to become involved with talks, access seeds & seedlings, attend garden visits & meet more experienced growers in a relaxed environment. That produce from local growers are already used by Harry's makes a perfect fit and Harry's is very accessible from all over Donegal & Derry for anyone interested in coming along. I look forward to meeting everyone on Tuesday and sharing plenty of growing tips."

5 MINUTES WITH - BEV DOHERTY

Bev Doherty lives on the outskirts of Carndonagh with her husband Mike and son Ronan. Their married daughter lives in England. They have a ¾ of an acre smallholding surrounding them with organic fruit, herbs, vegetables and chickens. They have a polythene tunnel and greenhouse that increases their growing period and have invested in solar panels. Bev runs different workshops and also teaches the piano and recorder. She is a member of Transition Inishowen Initiative, part of the worldwide Transition Towns Movement that is empowering people to explore the challenges of climate change, peak oil and the economic crisis and how to come together as communities to live more on harmony with the earth.

What music are you listening to at the moment?
It’s a CD called Show me the Path made by my Dutch friends Wim Wali and Arienne Van der Zwan - a wonderful mix of sacred chants from the world's spiritual traditions.

What book are you reading?
I am re-reading the Transition Handbook by Rob Hopkins. It has an excellent account on the various crises that humanity is facing and how we can build up resilience by coming together as communities to produce locally grown food, energy and public transport.

What was your favourite childhood game?
Stilts, they were a real challenge and the top and whip. You don’t see either of these much now.

Have you been to the cinema recently, what did you see and was it any good?
I went to see The Age of Stupid. I was at the world premiere recently. I was gobsmacked at the images the film has that showed the outcome of climate change if we carry on with the “Business as Usual” attitude. The film stars Pete Postlethwaite who plays a future archivist who looks back from 2055 at old footage to understand why humankind failed to address climate change, and asks "Why didn't we save ourselves while we had the chance?"

What would you never throw away?
Anything that could be recycled or re-used. We recycle Christmas and birthday wrapping paper and never have to buy any.

Favourite TV programme?
I watched an excellent programme on the BBC Natural World series called A Farm for the Future recently. Wildlife filmmaker Rebecca Hosking looked into how to transform her family’s farm in Devon into a low energy farm for the future. She discovers that nature holds the key. I also enjoyed the series Around the World in 80 Faiths.

What job did you want to do when you were a child?
I always wanted to be a teacher.

Where was your best holiday and what made it special?
My 11 month trip around the world. I was travelling from September 06 to August 07 and it was the adventure of a lifetime. I was in the US, Australia, New Zealand, India and Europe. I worked on organic farms and with communities.I also stayed with friends and family and taught peace dances in ashrams in India. I met really inspirational people and saw many natural wonders. I discovered that the world is basically a friendly place.

What famous people would you invite around for dinner and why?
Rob Hopkins, the author of The Transition Town Handbook, he is so inspiring. I would also have Satish Kumar, the editor of Resurgence Magazine around. He walked around the world for peace in the 1970’s and is a very spiritual person and great storyteller.

What do you do for a special treat?
Grind some organic and fairtrade Colombian coffee beans, and make an amazing cafe latte with hot frothy milk and cream. It would be accompanied by a couple of squares of Seeds of Change dark chocolate.

Favourite animal?
A milking goat with a nice big udder. We used to keep them but then our home- schooled children went to school, got sophisticated and demanded cow’s milk.

Biggest thrill?
Going to Dublin with other members of the Inishowen Environmental Group in 1986. We went to collect £3000 for our 3rd prize in the National Washday Competition for our Inishowen Clean Up Campaign. At the time nearly every school, community group and individual in Inishowen cleared Inishowen of litter in a single weekend. Anneka Rice turned up on the GAA pitch in Carndonagh with three helicopters as part of our reward, which in hindsight probably wasn’t the most environmentally friendly thing to do, but you couldn't move in Carn for people!

Biggest Challenge?
Living in the present moment.

What was the best present you ever got?
The gift of my two children.

What charities do you support?
Concern, Irish Seed Savers, Voice, FOE, Practical Action, Garden Organic, Soil Association and local causes too.

Favourite meal?

Spanking fresh mackerel with vegetables from the garden - new charlotte potatoes, roasted squash, and green beans. For dessert a large bowl of fresh picked berries with a dollop of Rachel’s Greek yoghurt, washed down with freshly pressed apple juice…..

The world’s most irritating invention?
GM crops. Far from feeding the world biotech companies are leading farmers to bankruptcy and suicide.I saw it for myself in India - 20,000 deaths a year.

Favourite past-times?

Growing food and teaching the Dances of Universal Peace.

Which period in history would you most like to have lived through?
1650 – 1750 All that wonderful Baroque music and I could have met Bach and Handel and asked Telemann to write easier recorder music!

What do you have for breakfast?
An apple to start with, then a huge bowl of porridge with dried fruits and seeds mixed in, milled flaxseed on top, a dusting of cinnamon and a drizzle of maple syrup. Prunes on the side. I 'll have a hot water or weak green tea to drink.

Do you have a favourite cartoon character?
When I was young I loved Rupert Bear. I now have a favourite cartoonist. He goes by the name of Polyp and comments on the state of the world. It’s razor sharp.

What was your first paid job?
Working behind the delicatessen counter in David Greggs, a small supermarket in Wokingham in the UK in the 60’s.

Best/worst household task?
The best is baking bread, the worst is trying to get to the bottom of the mountains of clutter in the house.

What is the best/worst piece of advice you have been given?
The best was being advised to take up meditation. The worst was to plant hawthorn hedges in between our veggie beds. They get very prickly and the thorns can easily go straight through your gloves if they are lying on the ground after being pruned.

Personal philosophy?
Believe in the goodness of people and live lightly on the earth.

DIARMUID GAVIN WELCOMED IN CARNDONAGH

Diarmuid Gavin talking in Carndonagh

Diarmuid Gavin with the playground committee in Carndonagh

The stage in the Áras, Carndonagh Community School last Wednesday was lush and brimming with the best plants the season had to offer. The plants and shrubs were supplied by Carndonagh garden centre and set the scene for one of the most innovative garden designers in the world of horticulture, Diarmuid Gavin.

Fresh from his success at last weekend’s Irish Film and Television awards where he won the IFTA for ‘Best Factual Entertainment Show,’ Diarmuid arrived in Carndonagh this week to begin a series of consultations with local schools and community groups. These sessions will form the design concepts for the Barrack Hill town park taking into consideration the thoughts of over 130 participants from the area.

The celebrity gardener and landscape architect was asked to take on the challenge of satisfying a whole community by the playground committee in the town. Together they have teamed up with the Public Art Office and the Community and Enterprise Section of Donegal County Council to design and create what will be one of Ireland’s most imaginative and ambitious community spaces and play parks.

Denis McGonagle on behalf of the Council welcomed Diarmuid and commented that the park was a long time coming. “It’s amazing to have someone of Diarmuid’s calibre involved in the park, which will be a flagship for Inishowen. Everyone will get the chance to contribute on the project and it is important to remember that this park, when completed will belong to and be maintained by the community”

Aideen Doherty from Donegal County Council was extremely positive about the open evening. “The talk gives everyone a chance to see who Diarmuid is and where his influences come from,” she said.

Besides hearing from people at the open meeting, Diarmuid will be consulting with groups of children and teenagers from schools as well as older members of the community. Dermott is used to dealing with exacting clients but not 130 at one time. “This is the most clients Diarmuid has ever had to deal with!” Aideen exclaimed, “But if anyone can get the community to agree on the finished project, it’s Diarmuid”.

His contributions to the Chelsea flower show have given him the reputation of being innovative and a little controversial especially with his “Colourful Suburban Eden” also known as the bubble gum garden, where he placed hundreds of brightly coloured plastic balls on sticks around a foliage backdrop. “Some of his ideas can be a bit frightening,” said Mary Reilly from the Inishowen Organic Network “but I love his work. It gets your mind going and his ideas are never boring or conventional,” she stressed.

A relaxed and casually dressed Diarmuid addressed the attentive crowd. “ This is by far the most people I have ever consulted with on a project,” said Diarmuid. “Satisfying a whole community is top priority and listening to everyone’s needs will be the key to the success of the project,” he continued “There are three main issues for this project – budget - practicality and safety. Some of the school children have come up with fantastic ideas and it is a question of taking these on board and making them a reality. There are a few issues on ideas such as the iPod docking station and the possibility of making the park look like the set on I’m a Celebrity- Get Me Out of Here, which relies heavily on rope bridges and tropical trees, but I am sure we will come to a suitable compromise!”

It is apparent that Diarmuid will no doubt get a few tongues wagging with his ideas but this is something that excites him in his development as a designer. “When I left the Botanic gardens in Dublin, I came across a book called “Paradise Transformed, the Private Garden” by Guy Cooper and Gordon Taylor. The radical imagery of their designs really had a big influence on me and I knew that that I was better suited to garden design than any other aspect of gardening,” he said enthusiastically.

“The completed Barrack Hill Park will have to feel real and be rooted in the soul. It cannot be imposed on the town.” He emphasised.

Diarmuid will be returning to Carndonagh in April and will have a rough draft of the plans to run past everyone who is involved in this fantastic project which will help to lift the profile of not only Carndonagh but the whole of the peninsula.

SWILLY GARDENING CLUB

SWILLY GARDENING CLUB IS ONE YEAR OLD
One year ago this month a group of gardening enthusiasts living around Buncrana got together and formed the Swilly Gardening Club. These intrepid enthusiasts realised there are plenty of other keen gardeners in the area that were looking for somewhere to learn more about horticulture. “You only have to look into peoples gardens around Inishowen to realise that there is a wealth of knowledge and interest when it comes to plant care” says Ian Gomersall, a member of the group. When the group was formed a year ago the committee didn’t really know what the reaction to it would be. They were not disappointed. In fact the attendance on the first night last February was fantastic. They practically filled the main hall at the local school! Over the first year the club has had some very prominent speakers to entertain and enlighten the members. Gordon Toner from Limavady, started the year by talking about spring bulbs and alpines and showing slides of his fabulous collection. Danny Mc Laughlin from Carndonagh came in and gave a talk about what to do in the garden in April. Stephanie Stephens from Greencastle talked about organic gardening in July and Patrick McCartney from Moville sang songs and cracked jokes in October. Other events throughout the year included a quiz night, a very successful plant sale and a bus trip to visit gardens of interest around Northern Ireland. In August there was a show night where members could bring their own grown plant or vegetables to be judged.

The club will be starting up again in February on Monday the 21st of February in the main hall, Scoil Iosagain, Buncrana at 8pm. The speaker on the night will be Clive Alcorn, from Letterkenny who will be showing us how to make colourful planters for this time of year. Throughout the year the club committee will be searching the country for speakers to give stimulating talks on all aspects of gardening.

The cost of the evening will be €2 for members and €5 for non-members which includes entry into the prize draw. At the first meeting there will be the opportunity to pay an annual subscription. Tea and coffee are served and the evening is great for networking with likeminded gardeners.

The club now meet at the Angling Centre

COMPOSTING WEEKEND

COMPOSTING MADE EASY
Buncrana lost their paper recycling facility a while back. I am not really sure why but it now means that we should be taking it to Carndonagh to the recycling centre if you don’t put it in a blue bin. I have a better idea. To save on the petrol and time needed to get to the council site why not just rip the newspapers up and put the pieces in the compost bin. I have been doing just that for months now and it rots down really quickly and dries out the composted fruit and vegetables, which in turn keeps the pesky fruit fly population to a minimum.

There are some basics to learn when it comes to composting in the garden, such as don’t compost cooked food and meat, but grass clippings are fine. If you are new to composting or would like more information, why not pop over to the Courtyard Lifestyle Centre in Newtowncunnigham this Saturday (24th) from 1pm to 4pm. Ms. Nuala Madigan from the Irish Peatland Conservation Council will be the “Compost Doctor” for the day and will be on hand to answer all your questions. Don’t be put off by the fact that you don’t have a garden either! You can still compost kitchen refuse using a wormery. This relies on brandling worms to digest the waste.

The bin can be kept inside or on a patio and organic debris added in small quantities as it arises. A rich liquid is drawn off which makes an excellent houseplant feed, leaving a small amount of fine compost. Nuala will be able to explain about this in more detail on the day. If you have a lot of trees in your garden and collect a large amount of dead leaves in autumn, then it is best to compost these separately as they rot down more slowly. Round them up in a wire mesh cage, chicken wire is ideal, water in dry weather and two years later you will have leaf mould, suitable for conditioning soil and for enriching potting composts.

Suzanne Tinney, from the County Council will also be at the Courtyard Lifestyle Centre. She is the Waste Awareness officer and will be able to answer other waste management or recycling queries. There will also be an expert to help if you are interested in setting up a wildlife garden.

Horticultural.

KITCHEN GARDEN

If you put mesh up to support your plants leave a gap at the bottom to make harvesting and weeding easier.

KITCHEN GARDEN
Just because it is cold and windy and there is loads to do around the house shouldn't put you off caring for the garden at this time of year. Let’s see what we can be getting on with in the kitchen garden

FORK IN
If you have any areas that are bare then fork in plenty of compost or rotted manure. If conditions are very wet, cover an area with polythene sheet to keep the rain off, and add your compost once the soil has dried out.

APPLE TREES
On trained forms of apple tree, such as espaliers and cordons, sideshoots shortened in summer can be reduced in length now to about three buds. Any new shoots that have grown to extend the framework can be tied in to their supports.

BEAN TRENCH
Prepare a bean trench on the site where you're planning to grow your runner beans next summer. Take out a deep trench and fill with the rotted contents of your compost bin. Continue adding kitchen waste during the winter. Cover with soil in late spring, then sow or plant out your beans on top.

EARLY RHUBARB
Place buckets or forcing jars over dormant clumps of rhubarb to encourage stems to form for a delicious early harvest.

NEW FRUIT
Continue planting new fruit trees and bushes. Bare-rooted plants, available by mail order from specialist fruit growers, offer the best value. Raspberries and cane fruits can also be planted now.

CURRANTS
Shorten side shoots on red and white currants to just one bud. Also remove any old stems crowding the centre of the bush.

DON'T FORGET THE SPUDS
Place your order for seed potatoes now, especially if you want to grow organic ones. These will be delivered later in the winter, when they can be set to form shoots before planting out.

MORE WINTER JOBS

Nerine

Take hardwood cutting. Most shrubs will take if you cut a twig about a foot long from mature wood. Plant in the garden by making a slit with the spade and simply leave until next summer. Dig up and transplant into the final position where it is to grow.

Wallflowers can be planted now. They can be pruned back every year. Even though they are classed as biennials, they will give years of blooms if they are cut back after they flower.

Nerine bulbs are still looking good at this time of the year. If you want to dig some of these up from your friends garden then ensure that you don’t disturb the roots when you dig up a clump, as they don’t like being moved. Wait until the foliage has died down before you attempt this.

If you have a no dig policy in your vegetable garden then cover any bare soil with carpet or mulch such as straw. This will stop any nutrients being washed away in adverse weather and will give you a weed free bed to sow the spring crops.

Get the lawnmower serviced. If you are handy with the spanner then get cracking and get the mower ready for winter. Empty the petrol out, as it can get slimy if it’s left for too long. Check the spark plug and filters and change if necessary. The blades might need sharpening as well. If you are in any doubt then take it to a repair shop. It will be better to do this now than having to join the queue in spring.

Plant and seed catalogues should be coming through the letterboxes if you are on companies mailing lists and now would be a great time to look through them and plan what you want to order next year. You could always see if there is anything in the catalogues for your friends and family that would make useful presents at Christmas. I like to look through the Chase organic catalogue, as there are a lot of gadgets that you can use in the garden, the industrial flamethrower springs to mind, which would be very useful for keeping the weeds down! If you are buying products though, make sure the items are a good quality and will last the rigours of the outdoor world.

MICE AND RATS
The pesky rodents are back in the houses now the cold weather is with us. Let me know if you have any effective methods of driving them outside. We saw a white and grey one running around our estate last week. It stood up to two dogs and wasn’t scared of me. It is probably a pet that has escaped so if you have lost a fearless rodent please come and get it!

Horticultural.

NOVEMBER CLEAN UP

I thought I’d break from my usual routine this week and actually talk about gardening. It’s all too easy to ignore the garden as the cold winter nights start to close in on us. Whether we like it or not though, the next couple of months are the best times to be doing any number of jobs, such as moving dormant trees and shrubs that have outgrown their places and planting new hedges (remember not to do these if there is the threat of frost as this will damage the plant roots) The vegetable patch can be prepared in readiness for next year, either do the heavy double digging and let the frost break the soil up or use the less laborious method of putting down cardboard then a thick layer of well rotted manure , the worms will then do all the hard work. You might like to sow a green manure such as field beans or winter rye; these will bring up valuable nutrients from deep in the soil and can be dug into the bed in spring.

It’s getting a bit late to sow new lawns with grass seed, as the plants may not be able to withstand the colder weather. The more expensive option of laying turf will still be all right as the grass is already established. Make sure the turf has a good root system and lay them as soon as they arrive. If all this sounds like hard work, then now is also an ideal time to sit in front of the fire with a pencil and paper and sketch out ideas for hard landscaping jobs such as the new patio or set of steps, this will give you chance to order the materials you need, there will be plenty of pleasant winter days to start these projects.

In the Greenhouse
If you have the use of a greenhouse or polythene tunnel, then you will probably be aware that this time of year brings plenty of problems for over wintering plants. Therefore some precautionary steps are needed to stop the fungal diseases or mould from destroying your prized specimens. On warmer days improve ventilation by opening doors and windows; this will reduce the humidity, one thing that mould thrives on. Keep what plants you have well spaced to let the air circulate and try not to let water sit on the plant leaves. I had a lot of trouble with mould in my tunnel last year and I must confess I was tempted to buy a chemical to spray on the plants to combat the problem. One thing that stopped me was the fact that I have recently constructed a pond in the tunnel to house my slug eating frog friends, any water that is in the tunnel will go to the pond as it has been built at the lowest point, so chemicals are out of the question. Luckily I was told recently that there is an organic method that can be used, this involves spraying the plants with one part skimmed milk and three parts water… Job done; I’ll let you know if it works.

As with most plants, when they are not actively growing, they generally require less water, so allow the surface of the compost or soil to dry out before watering.

Fruit garden
Now is a good time to plant fruit trees or all kinds. The soil is still warm so roots will have a chance to establish before next year. If you are planning to plant apples, check that the varieties are self-fertile which means that you will only need the one tree to produce fruit. Or that the trees rely on other trees to pollinate one another. This is important to ensure a good crop. As a general guide, trees that flower at the same time will cross-pollinate one another. I you are in any doubt then pick the brains of the garden centre staff before you pick the fruit!

Horticultural.

GROWING YOUR OWN BRUSSEL SPROUTS

If I were to be asked what my favourite vegetable was then I would probably say the brussel sprout. Scoff if you will but I never seem to tire of the flavour and texture. This time of year sees the vegetable at its finest as they are usually home grown. I did try growing my own for a few years but I never did manage to get a good crop. They are a member of the cabbage family, which also includes cauliflower, swedes, turnips and broccoli. Sprouts are subject to the same diseases but they seem to be greedier than any of the others. I had healthy leaves but I could never manage to get the brussel to grow tightly. They resembled mini open cabbages and although the taste was the same I did miss the crunchiness of the shop bought ones. The other disadvantage of the openness was that small slugs used the spaces for their hiding places, which was a very unwelcome addition to the dinner - it took ages to prepare them!

GROWING YOUR OWN SPROUTS
The best varieties to grow would be the F1 hybrids as these do promise firmer, rounder sprouts. The main crop, or mid season type seem to be more reliable as well. The plant likes rich soil so a light, deep, well-drained soil is a must. Preferably the site should be south facing too. Make the soil have a pH of around 6.5, if it is lower than this then garden lime should be added. If you can get your hands on some bulky organic manure at this time of the year then work that into the ground now so it will be ready for spring. Fertiliser can be added just before planting that way it won’t get washed away before hand. The seeds can be planted in February under cover and planted outdoors in May. Try to keep the perennial weeds away from the plants; a mulch cover from good quality garden compost around the plants would be very beneficial. Loads of pests will try to get your prized crop. Slugs, caterpillars and greenfly will all have a go. Watch out for pigeons as well. They can totally strip a row of plants in a matter of minutes.

Horticultural.

GLOSSARY OF GARDENING WORDS

Have you ever been in the company of someone and can go for ages and not have a clue what they are talking about. This happens when the person is fanatical about a subject that you know very little or nothing about. The same problem can arise when I get on my soapbox and start using terms that are common in the gardening world, but rarely used anywhere else. Such as the word loam, this just means a mixture of sand, clay and organic matter…soil in other words. Using key words is a great idea when you are trying to charge customers more for your time as a landscape gardener or garden designer, the same is probably true in most professions. An old lecturer told me once that all I had to do was to learn three or four Latin words for plants and if used at the right time in a conversation would make me sound like a professional.

Here are a few words to use if you want to impress the neighbours.

Aerate -This is when the soil is loosened with a fork or machine to allow air and water into the ground
Biennial –This is a plant that usually lives for two years. It flowers and going to seed in the second year.
Dormancy is when a plant has a rest in winter.
Elaeagnus ebbingei -A hardy variegated shrub.
Germinate means the sprouting of a seed.
Herbaceous a plant with soft, rather than woody stems.
Hydroponics. This is when a plant is grown in a liquid instead of soil.
Perennial means a non-woody plant that lives longer than two years.
Topiary is where shrubs are pruned to a particular shape, for example animals.
Variegated leaves have two or more different colours.

Armed with these few words you can lean over the garden fence and come out with some gems like…. “ Hello, what wet weather we are having, we could almost be growing our biennial plants by hydroponics! I’ve just been aerating the lawn with a view to putting in an herbaceous border. My recently germinated perennial plants are dormant at present but I’m hoping to put them in too. I’m also hoping to do a bit of topiary on my variegated elaeagnus ebbingei”…. Come out with stuff like that and I can guarantee the neighbours wont keep you talking, they will be making any excuse to leave!

Horticultural.

A STROLL IN THE GARDEN- PADDY MCCARTNEY

This week (and next!) we are in Paddy McCartney’s fabulous organic garden in Greencastle. Paddy is a very well known entertainer around the peninsula (and beyond) with his unique blend of singing and storytelling. Paddy is also very passionate about his garden and has just finished running a course linked to the Western Organic Network on growing organically. He ran the practical course in his own garden and hopes it will be an annual event.

How long have you been working on the garden?
About twenty years. The garden was initially just at the front of the cottage but I have slowly been working my way down the fields.

What is your favourite plant?
I have lots of them depending on the time of year. The Pieris Forestii holds lovely memories of my friend Albert, who has sadly passed away, as we got the plants together. Verbenas are looking good at the moment, especially the Bonariensis. They do not need staking and are in flower for five months of the year. Butterflies love them and they are easily propagated.

What is your favourite feature in the garden?
Although it isn’t a garden feature as such, I do get a lot of pleasure looking out of the living room window at the garden. From there I can see the rockery and the pond with the birds splashing around in the water.

What is your favourite season and why?
I love the spring as it is the time of new growth and looking forward to the growing year ahead.

What work gives you the most pleasure in the garden?
Planting seeds of the flowers and vegetables. Even after all the years of planting it still amazes me that seeds so small can eventually grow into giant plants, trees and shrubs. I enjoy getting an early start to the year in the glasshouse. A glasshouse can extend the season too. I am growing late sweet peas, dahlias, chrysanths and cosmos under cover for a forthcoming wedding in a few weeks.

Top Gardening tips?
People ask me when is the best time to plant things. My answer to this is whenever you have the time, take the notion or have a spade handy!

Mulch the garden. Put in plenty of organic matter. If you have newspapers you can recycle those into the compost bins or beds and borders to save you the bother of taking them to the recycling centres.

Avoid the glut of home grown vegetables in summer. Don’t grow too much of one type.

More from Paddy next week….

Horticultural.

COMPOSTING DO'S AND DON'TS

After reading the lead story in a recent edition of my favourite newspaper (no, not the Derry Journal), I got a bee in my bonnet about how we, as a society, deal with our waste. As I’m sure you are aware, most landfill sites are now filling up and it is becoming increasingly difficult to find new, suitable sites. Up to 30% of our domestic rubbish is organic kitchen and garden waste, which could be composted. When our old potato peelings and grass clippings are dumped in landfill sites they rot down and create vast amounts of methane gas, which causes long-term environmental problems. So I thought I would like to do my bit for the community and perhaps set up a scheme where I could supply and demonstrate the use of compost bins. There is nothing like compost for healthy gardens and plants! However, Donegal County Council is one step ahead of me. It already provides good quality bins at a heavily subsidised price of around ten pounds, although at the moment you have to travel to Lifford to get one. They are organising local “sale days which will include demonstrations on how to compost waste from both the kitchen and garden. Compost bins will be on sale as well as worm bins (including worms) and soil activators! The Council sale days will be advertised in all the local papers. The first one is in Stranorlar on Thursday 26th of July at 4 pm, then Letterkenny on the 27th at 4pm. The sale will be hitting Inishowen when they come to the community school in Carndonagh on the 28th July at 1pm.

Most kitchen or garden waste will rot down eventually, even if it just put in a pile at the bottom of the garden. The art of good composting is to speed up the process, this is where the containers come in, with the use of an activator to heat the compost, you can have a soil like compost ready for the garden in as little as six weeks in summer!

What to compost
It is possible to compost most organic matter, but in practice you may need to be more selective, as our weather isn’t always favourable for getting hot compost bins.

Do compost
Kitchen waste, such as vegetable peelings, eggshells and tea leaves.
Twiggy prunings but chop or shred them first.
Grass clippings (not too many at any one time)
Dead and discarded plants.
Most weeds.except for perennials such as docks.
Straw.
Small quantities of shredded newspaper.
Wood ash.

Don’t compost
Inorganic material, such as plastic, glass or metal.
Diseased plant material.
Cooked meat or fish, which can attract vermin.
Thorny prunings, which are unpleasant to handle.
Woody and evergreen prunings, unless shredded first, as they rot slowly.
Roots of perennial weeds, which can survive.
Vacuum cleaner dust; it can contain harmful chemicals.
Glossy and coloured paper, which may contain chemicals.


Common problems
Weeds appear after applying compost A heap needs to reach at least 55o C (131oF) to kill off any seeds within it. Only the largest and best managed are ever likely to reach this temperature, so it is probably wiser to leave out weeds that have set seed.

There are large quantities of unrotted matter The most likely reason is that you haven’t included enough sappy material. If you need more, try a greengrocer for vegetable waste, or use a nitrogen- rich activator such as dried blood. Turning the heap should help.

The heap becomes smelly and offensive This is probably because it is too wet or too much soft waste has been added without mixing it up with fibrous material. Keep the bin covered. Adding cooked food can also cause nasty smells.

Wormeries and leaf bins
Even if you have no garden, you can still compost kitchen refuse using a wormery. This relies on brandling worms to digest the waste. The bin can be kept inside or on a patio and organic debris added in small quantities as it arises. A rich liquid is drawn off which makes an excellent houseplant feed, leaving a small amount of fine compost. If you have a lot of trees in your garden and collect a large amount of dead leaves in autumn, then it is best to compost these separately as they rot down more slowly. Round them up in a wire mesh cage, chicken wire is ideal, water in dry weather and two years later you will have leaf mould, suitable for conditioning soil and for enriching potting composts.

Horticultural.

LATE SUMMER IN THE FRUIT GARDEN

The summer sunshine was ideal for fruit growing. Some fruit was knocked back a bit because of the lack of water. The content of fruit is mainly water so if they are deprived of this then problems arise. I saw indications of erratic watering recently on some apple and pear trees. The fruit had been dry for a while then when the sudden rains came the fruit expanded and the skins split. It isn’t just apples and pears that are affected by this. Tomatoes are very sensitive to irregular watering and their skins split very easily. After a very short space of time bacteria sets in and the fruit becomeq inedible. The secret is to keep a constant supply of water to the fruit trees and bushes even if they have been established for a few years


FRUIT CARE

Water:

Water fruit trees and bushes in dry weather. Large established trees shouldn’t need any extra water – but fruit on a very dwarfing rootstock, and trained fruit, particularly when trained against a wall, may well do. If your fruit tree is not already mulched after watering lay a thick mulch of organic matter around it. This will help retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Containers: Don’t forget that container grown fruit relies on you for nearly all of its water supply. Water daily, even when it rains, as rain can bounce off leaves rather than soaking the soil. If you are going to be away for a few days, move containers into the shade, if practical, to reduce water loss.

Peaches: If you are lucky enough to grow wall-trained peaches and nectarines in the conservatory, prune them immediately they have fruited. Cut out the shoots that have borne fruit, and any dead wood. Tie in replacement shoots.

Reduce fungal diseases: Prune plum and damson trees after fruiting. Cut out any material that is dead or diseased. Pruning plums at the correct time of year will minimise the risk of infection by fungal diseases. Vigorous growth in the summer reduces the chances of spores of this disease gaining entry through pruning cuts

Blackberries: Continue training new canes of blackberries. Watch out for thorns! Train the young shoots to wires against a fence or wall in one direction and the older fruiting canes in the opposite direction. Tie in with twine. This method makes picking and pruning simple.

Blackcurrants: Prune blackcurrants any time between now and late winter. Remove up to one third of the bush each year, cutting out the darkest, oldest wood in favour of young growth, which will bear most fruit next year. Start with low growing shoots to prevent next year's fruit from dragging on the ground. Overall, aim to maintain an upright shape and open habit in the centre.

Apples and pears: Harvest early apples and pears. A reliable way of telling if a fruit is ripe or not is to cup the fruit in your hand and twist it gently. If it is ripe the fruit will fall into your hand. If not leave on the tree to ripen further. Early crops of apples and pears do not store for long so are best enjoyed not long after picking.

Raspberries: Continue pruning summer fruiting raspberries. Cut out the canes that have borne fruit this summer and tie in the canes that have grown this year. Any new canes that are weak should be cut out, rather than tied in, as it is unlikely that they will bear much fruit.

Trained fruit: Prune trained fruit trees now. Cordon apple and pear trees need to have side growths from the main stem cut back to 8cm. The shoots that were cut in the same way last year will have produced side shoots. Prune these back to 2.5cm. Summer pruning encourages fruit bearing spurs for next year. Prune esplaier and fan-trained trees in the same way.

Finish off: Finish off summer pruning of cordon and fan trained gooseberries and redcurrants.

Horticultural.

MORE ON PERMACULTURE

Paul and I had our mulching day last week. We probably learned more from the group that attended than they did. It’s amazing what individuals know about gardening! We would like to thank everyone that turned up for the enjoyable day.

One method of gardening we covered was Permaculture. I remember I picked up a book by Bill Mollison, (the Australian who came up with the idea in 1978) a few years ago. Permaculture is a system where people and the land live in harmony together. This can include energy efficient housing, composting toilets, wind power etc. Permaculture uses a no dig policy on the land and no pesticides are used. This idea in gardening isn’t new though I have a book on my shelves called Gardening Without Digging written by A.. Guest which was published in 1947 which covers the same basic ideas (It’s still in print but costs £5 instead of 2 shillings!). I’ve no doubt these ideas go back thousands of years, as most of them are common sense. Anyway, as this is Paul’s last week with us I’ll pass you over to him to explain about the practicalities of permaculture.

Paul’s parting ponderings
How does permaculture work in practice? We have been doing some work on the site at Clonbeg to prepare for next years vegetable plot and incorporating some of the ideas. After all if you like the look of something the next thing to do is try it out for real. The outcomes are not entirely predictable, it’s bit experimental and I think any venture that incorporates the ideas of the perma-culture advocates will always be, as artists say, “a work in progress”. Instant success is good and a spur to further exploration but lessons learnt when the unexpected happens are also very useful and serve to increase our understanding.

First of all we looked at the area to be worked .It is an informal vegetable plot covering about 100 m2 that has become overgrown with couch grass, docks and nettles. The drainage is quite poor but it’s encouraging to see how many worms wriggle for cover when a spadeful of soil is turned. The lushness of the unwanted plant growth shows that the site has obvious potential, being extremely fertile.and sheltered from the prevailing weather. There are no obvious pests and the surrounding area supports a healthy population of small birds. There are frogs living in the near by wet areas.

We decided that the best way to achieve the highest yield for the least effort on the site is to build raised beds. These allow easy access for cultivation, don’t waterlog and enable a “no dig approach to be taken. .We used scrap planks to build three of them rescued from a landfill; a fourth was an old bed frame. The beds were lined with cardboard, newspapers and woolen carpet underlay We filled them with a mixture of yukky stuff that included spent mushroom compost, seaweed, horse manure, leaves, hair, uncomposted kitchen waste, old paperbacked books and some very ancient and tatty but muched loved jeans after all some sacrifices have to be made. We topped them off with the contents of old hanging baskets and mulched them.

To study which mulches would be most successful we tried three different types. One bed is covered with eight inches of oat straw, one is covered in black plastic recovered from old potting compost bags, one is covered with old carpet underlay and one has been planted with winter field beans as a green manure. The beans will fix nitrogen and take up nutrients that would otherwise be washed out of the soil by winter rains. In the spring they will be chopped down and used as a mulch or composted. Decisions will then have to be made about how all the beds will be worked with, and what vegetables will be the most productive.

In an attempt to keep the invasive perennial weeds at bay (if that’s possible!) we have surrounded the beds with old carpets retrieved from landfill, a strip of kitchen floor covering and a mulch of deep straw from some spoiled bails. These serve as paths and when the nettles, docks and couch grasses drive through, they will be covered with more straw or have their heads chopped off and composted. ( That will teach them!) To increase the space we have for growing and use height as well as width we have built a hazel arch between two beds for climbing plants to scramble over. We used thinnings from a coppicing job for this.

Phew! All this has been a great deal of hard work and has taken hundreds of cups of tea to accomplish. Tea bags have played an important role in filling the raised beds. The plot has been transformed and we have managed to put all the hard ware in place using materials that someone else has thought of as rubbish. (One of the interesting books I found in the Buncrana library ecology box calls rubbish “secondary resources”, I like to think of it as anything we have not found a use for …yet!) With luck and a bit of help from the weather next year our planning should pay off and in the autumn we should be able to look back on a bumper harvest grown with the minimum of effort. It is said that the best gardener is the one who is happiest with his or her garden and enjoys it the most. If some of this works we will be very happy and whatever happens we have enjoyed ourselves.

It is also important to encourage helpful wildlife to live around the site so we have fastened an old tin teapot in a tree hoping a robin will build a nest in it in spring. We intend to put up enclosed nesting boxes for blue tits. From hatching to flying a brood of young blue tits scoffs its way through twenty thousand caterpillars (I don’t know who counted) saving the need to use sprays on early plants. They are also very keen on varying their diet with a few greenfly. It would be good if a hedghog decided to join the team. He would hoover up the slugs, which could be a problem in a garden that relies so much on deep organic mulches, protecting and feeding the soil to help the plants grow successfully.

If we have managed to whet your appetite and you want to know any more about what we are working towards Ian is always happy to talk about his project. You also might have lots of advice for him, as there is always something new to learn in gardening. I’m off back to Nottingham on Monday and will be working on a community orchard scheme for a few weeks.

Horticultural.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

Photo: Windswept apple tree.

I missed the monthly meeting of the Swilly Gardening Club again last Monday. But all was not lost as the group held a midweek meeting where John from Mac’s landscaping did a very interesting presentation in his polytunnel on planting up baskets and containers. It’s the first time that I have been inside a tunnel this season and the smell of the bedding plants, soil and humidity brought back memories of how much work is involved in growing annual plants. John had a wonderful selection of fine looking plants. There were pansies, violas, busy lizzies, surfinias, dahlias and fuchsias to name but a few. John is like myself when it comes to planting up, he likes a riot of colour and will try and get as many plants into the container as possible to give a grand display.

After John’s demonstration I talked to some of the members of the club to see what I missed at the Monday meeting. There was a quiz, which went down very well and a question and answer session for people to get advice about all things horticultural.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
Before I start with the questions from the club, I had a question that I needed answering myself. On the estate where we live there are two trees. One is an old Hawthorne, which was here before the estate. Hawthorne trees such as this are the fairy trees that are cherished and steeped in folklore history. The other tree is equally as fine and is the tree that represents Ireland, the Oak. This oak tree is again quite old and was here before we were. Some over zealous lads on the estate had fun one evening peeling the bark off some branches for a bit of fun. The branches were about the radius of dinner plate and the lads peeled off the bark all around the branches and up to a length of about three feet. I asked Colm Grant from the club about whether we could protect the branches in some way to stop disease getting into the tree.

Once the bark is peeled off a tree the affected trunk will die. The main activity of the growth of a tree is just underneath the bark. All of the layers of bark don’t have to be removed to kill the affected area either. There is nothing that can be put over the affected area and within a few years the branches will die back. Thankfully the lads didn’t peel the bark off the main trunk. This would have killed the tree entirely. As it is the branches will die back to the main trunk and then the tree will seal the area up to protect itself from further infection. I have passed this information on to the lads concerned but they are interested in another sort of wood now, wood for the coming bonfire in June!

Q. When should you start to prune back broom?

A. Broom can be cut back after flowering. It is important to cut back these shrubs when they are very young to encourage bushy growth. Broom can get very leggy and the branches are very brittle similar to the buddleia bush. Both of these shrubs suffer damage if not pruned back when the wind whips up on the peninsula.

Q. I have fruit trees that have red growths on the bark, what is this?

A. The trees have developed canker. The bark is probably shrinking in concentric circles, which will lead to further infection. This is a serious disease of apples and pears, and is especially bad in poorly drained soil. Cut off the damaged twigs and cut out the canker from the stems and branches. Check at the local garden centre to see what organic sprays are available to control the problem.

Horticultural.

HAIR FERTILIZER

Photo: Hair makes for excellent insulation in a birds nest.

Ian
Would hair make a good garden fertiliser? Regards PB Moville

Reply
I tried hair in the garden a few years ago. I went around all of the barber’s shops and collected it. I can honestly say that it is the most unpleasant thing I have put on the garden. The thought of it now is making me feel queasy! That aside let us have a look at whether it’s worth all of the retching

Hair might affect the growth of plants in a number of ways.

Hair is made of protein and all proteins contain Nitrogen and Sulphur (which are important plant nutrients), so when hair is broken down by bacteria this N and S will be available for plants to take up through their roots. Some gardeners use "hoof and horn" or "dried blood" as fertilisers in this way - hooves and horns are made of the same protein as hair (keratin), but for me applying this is more favourable by far. However, when hair is broken down by bacteria, the bacteria this may actually compete with plants for the available nitrogen in the soil and actually remove nitrogen from soil, in the same way that fresh straw does. Hair would add organic matter to the soil and that may change the structure of the soil, making it better drained (for example). However, the effect would be easier to obtain with rotted leaf mould or other composted garden/kitchen waste. Can I change the subject now please!

Horticultural.

LADYBIRDS IN THE GARDEN

Photo: Fennel

LADYBIRDS
Probably the most familiar of our beetles, ladybirds are one of the few insects widely regarded with respect and even affection. This friendship is an old one. Ladybirds have long been connected with good fortune in myths and legends, and from an early age children still learn to treasure them through storybooks and rhymes. Such high regard is well-earned. Most ladybirds and their young (larvae) are carnivorous, feeding on and helping to control large numbers of insect pests, particularly greenfly. They can also eat mites, scale insects, mealy bugs and small caterpillars

ATTRACTING LADYBIRDS INTO THE GARDEN
As one of the major natural predators of greenfly, ladybirds have a special place in the garden. Here are some ways you can make your garden ladybird-friendly.

Cultivate a patch of nettles (Urtica dioica): The nettle aphid (not a garden pest) is one of the earliest to appear in the spring. It is a favourite food of hungry ladybirds coming out of hibernation and looking for somewhere to lay their eggs. The nettles should be in a sunny spot. Cut them back in summer to encourage ladybirds to move onto other plants.

Don't panic and spray as soon as you see greenfly: Give natural predators, including ladybirds, a chance. Be patient! Ladybirds and other predators will only settle in if there is a plentiful supply of food i.e. greenfly.

Avoid pesticide sprays: Even approved organic sprays can harm beneficial insects. Both derris and pyrethrum have been shown to be harmful to adult ladybirds, their eggs and larvae. If you get desperate use soft soap or insecticidal soap to spot spray pest colonies. Try to avoid directly spraying ladybirds or their larvae, removing them first whenever possible. The organically approved fungicide sprays - Bordeaux mixture and sulphur are relatively safe for ladybirds (but sulphur can harm other beneficial insects).

Rescue lost ladybird larvae: Ladybirds do not always lay their eggs near a food source and the larvae are not very efficient at finding their prey. They do not use sight or smell - just move up the plant hoping to bump into a tasty morsel. If you find them wandering aimlessly move them to an aphid colony.

Leave hibernation sites for ladybirds: Hibernating ladybirds shelter in dying vegetation/plant debris, so delay cutting back or clearing up borders until spring. Dead-head plants with hollow stems to give ladybirds easier access, or cut stems back then stack them in a dryish sheltered spot. The hollow stems of plants such as angelica and fennel (Umbellifer family) make favourite hibernation sites.

Horticultural.

GROWING ROSES

Ever had problems growing roses? Well, if you’ve answered yes then fear not because this week I will talk about the basics for growing great roses. I used to have a bit of an aversion to the spikes on rose bushes. The reason for this was because I used to charge into gardens to do the work and if there was a spiky plant it would get me. As I have slowed down a bit I can now appreciate why these plants are so popular.

GROWING GREAT ROSES
If you are just beginning to grow roses, select a healthy specimen from your local nursery. Nurseries generally choose plants that do well in the North West and have healthy stock. Roses can be purchased bare-rooted or in a container. They should have 2 healthy, green stems, minimum. Pay attention to the root system. Does it have 4-5 thick roots and multitudes of smaller, fibrous roots? If so you are picking a good one

A rose will become a permanent member of your garden. Therefore it is important to choose a site that takes this into consideration. A rose should receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily in order to thrive. Morning sun is preferable for most plants, including the rose. Avoid planting your rose in areas that receive high winds. You can protect your roses by planting them near a fence, wall or other barrier. Don't plant roses too close to other shrubs or trees. These will compete with the rose for nutrients, sunlight and water. Roses do not like to stand in water so make sure they have proper drainage.

Prepare your soil. Roses prefer heavy clay loam that has been thoroughly tilled and enriched with organic matter. Organic fertilizers can be bought. These should have the three basic elements - nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium or NPK. The ratio should be 6-2-1, not exceeding 15. You can also custom make your own organic matter by composting and add this to the soil. Failing that just throw your old banana skins around the plant. The drainage, aeration and moisture content will all be improved with the addition of organic matter. Add lime to very acid soils and add organic matter to alkaline soils.

WHEN TO PLANT
Plant bare-rooted roses preferably in the late autumn or early winter and if you must, in the early spring. If planting is delayed, keep the roots moist and store in a cool, dark place. Plant as soon as possible. Container grown roses can be planted any time of the year as long as the soil is not frozen.

Plant your roses correctly. First, make sure your roots are thoroughly wet by letting the bare roots or container soak in water up to an hour before planting. Prune off any dead, damaged or diseased roots and top growth. Dig a hole deep enough to accommodate all the roots comfortably. Holes should be around 12-18 inches deep and 15-18 inches wide. They should not be crowded. The bud union (the place where the roots and top growth meet) should rest approximately 1 inch below the soil's surface. At this time you could add bone meal or compost. Make a small mound of dirt at the bottom of the hole. Spread the roots around this mound making sure that bunches of roots, clumps, are separated. Cut off any scraggly roots. Generally on new rose bushes, the canes sprout mainly from one side. To produce a well-rounded plant, place the rose with the sprouting side facing north. The southern exposure will help to stimulate growth on the bare side of your rose. Depending upon their final size, in general, roses should be spaced 1 foot from the edge of the bed and 30 inches apart. Rose bushes should be provided with at least 2.5 to 4 feet of space in which to grow. While miniature roses only need about 12 inches in which to grow. Plant climbing roses in the same manner but provide them with support from the very beginning. Finally, fill your hole in with soil, packing firmly around the base of the rose. Water the plant thoroughly. Do not mulch until spring.Feed and water your roses regularly.

Horticultural.