Friday, 25 May 2007

MIDGE MISERY




Ian
Help. We are trying to enjoy a barbeque but midges are eating us. What can we do? T.T by e-mail

Reply
There are two main ways to control the pesky midges; the first is to repel them.

Repel
Most of the traditional methods of midge control consist of repulsion. Something is used to either drive midges from an area or simply to persuade them not to bite your skin. One of the oldest ways of driving away midges is with smoke. A smokey fire was used in earliest times and is still used. I remember being in Glenveigh National Park where the workers walked around with a tin of smouldering peat. Later the smoking of a pipe was recommended, although this would probably shorten your life instead!. It seems that the smoke interferes with the midges’ sensory apparatus. They try to avoid the smoke and, even if they come near humans, they don’t recognise us. This is possibly connected with their use of carbon dioxide emissions to locate a host.



Many different midge repellent creams have been used over the years, everything from ancient herbal remedies to modern chemicals. Citronella, a type of lemongrass, has been especially popular over the years, we used some last week when we were camping and it was very effective. Garlic also has a reputation for driving away various pests including midges - though obviously it can drive away people too!



Another approach to repelling midges is to use ultrasonics. These devices drive away various pests including, it is claimed, midges. You can buy ultrasonic units designed to cover an entire area or smaller ones that can be worn on the wrist, although I haven’t seen any sold locally.
The other method is to attract the midges

Attract
The “attract” strategy of midge control is relatively new. High tech devices such as the Midge Magnet and MidgeEater emit carbon dioxide - often with other added bait - to mimic human breath. This attracts the female midges in the area that are then sucked in and killed. In an area that suffers from midges, one of these devices can destroy many bagfuls of the pesky biters. Calor gas manufactures the devices and initially there was only one unit on offer. This was very expensive and for areas such as Glenveagh National park. Smaller versions are now on the market called Midg-it, which runs on a 5kg gas bottle. Once activated it will kill all of the female midges in your area leaving you free to enjoy the barbeque in peace. For now though get some repellent with citronella in it.


Household,environmental.


STANLEY COOKER



I’ve just been messing with our cooker in the kitchen. Well, I say messing, what I really meant is that I have been giving it what could be loosely termed as a service. We have one of the Stanley Super 90 cookers that are pretty standard in most homes that burn solid fuel and it turns out that I haven’t been using ours very efficiently for the last three years since we moved in to the house. For a start the grate at the bottom of the fire has had a rather large hole in it for two years and it got so big that a breeze block just about filled the gap so the coal didn’t drop straight through into the pan below. It doesn’t do much for the air flow to get the fire going. This I can happily say has been replaced. The bloke in the shop told me that these move backwards and forwards with the aid of a pokey stick thing, to shake the clinker out. Something else that I didn’t know was that the sides of the fire had on them something called summer plates, which apparently re-direct the heat into the kitchen and uses less coal in the fire than it would do in the winter.


Household.

Thursday, 24 May 2007

ME AND MY MOTOR - JOHN GRANT




























































Name: John Grant
Address: Buncrana
Car: 1969 Ford Cortina Lotus Mark 11 twin cam 1600

John usually drives a Volkswagen Golf but hidden away in a garage is his fabulous Cortina Lotus Mark two. The familiar green stripe running down the bodywork was even more impressive in it’s day than a GTi badge is today.


How long have you had the car?
Four years. I saw the car at a motor show in England and felt as though I just had to own it. It wasn’t up for sale but I offered the owner so much money that he couldn’t refuse. It wasn’t until I got home that I realised how much I had parted with. I was in shock for weeks afterwards!


How long have you been involved with vintage cars?
Ever since I can remember. I am particularly fond of the Cortina. My first car was a Mark two and I still have the original steering wheel. It has been fitted to a 1600E that I am restoring at the moment.


Has the car won any competitions?
Yes. It won the Best Lotus at the Lotus Car Club show. It even won a prize at a Ford Escort show! I don’t tend to put it in to shows but if the weather stays good this year it might come out more.


Did you restore the car yourself?
I have done a small amount of work on it but the renovations carried out in the 80’s by the second owner was so thorough and comprehensive that it is still in showroom condition. (The first woman owner had the car for 19 years)


Any plans to change?
No, I will keep this car for as long as possible.


Is it reliable?
It is 100% reliable. I would feel confident driving the car any distance. It is such a pleasure to use. Lotus made significant alterations to the basic Cortina model. The reliable Lotus engine upgraded the BHP to 110. The low weight factor gives the Cortina the edge over most family cars on the road.


Best thing about the car?
Obviously the look is great. The acceleration and speed are also impressive. It’s also very fast! Lotus fitted the cars with lowered suspension and the axle and gearbox are from the 200e model so they are very hard wearing.


How often do you wash it?
It never gets washed! I just polish it after the dust sheets come off.


If you were the Minister for Finance what would you do to help motorists?
Take down the price of petrol.


What would you really like to be driving around in?
As much as I like the older cars I would still go for something up to date. The 5 series BMW would suit me perfectly.


Motoring.

Wednesday, 23 May 2007

RESISTANT TO RABBITS



Photo: Daphne Mezerium

Ian
Help! I keep planting shrubs in my garden but rabbits keep eating everything. Is there something that I can plant that these pests will leave well alone? Thanks N.A. Carn.

Reply
It often seems that rabbits can eat anything that they like. There are some shrubs that they tend to steer clear of because of factors such as thorns, spines, prickles or unappetising smells of tastes. There is no guarantee that they will leave these plants alone but they do show a degree of resistance.



Shrubs that rabbits won’t eat (hopefully)
Aucuba japonica.
Buddleia davidi.
Ceanothus.
Daphne mezereum
Eleagnus, Euonymus
Hydrangea.
Kalmia latifolia
Oleria
Ornamental and edible currants
Philadelphus
Skimmia
Snowberry
Tree paeony.
Viburnum opulus and V. tinus




Horticultural.


CHOOSING A PLANT FROM THE GARDEN CENTRE


We have planted most of our vegetables seeds in the garden now. I have a different method of working to the rest of the family when it comes to putting the seed in the ground. Firstly I like to sow the seed in straight rows, that way you can see where the weeds are growing, the family sow in the broadcast method which means getting a handful of seed and throwing them around! Secondly I also like to label the rows. This is something that I think is vital as you invariably forget where and what you have sown as soon as you come indoors and start to put the tea on. Keeping the label for the shrubs and perennials from the garden centres is also a good idea as you can refer to them for instructions on the plants care. As I am on the subject of garden centres I thought I would look at some tips to get the best out of them when you are choosing a plant.

CHOOSING A PLANT FROM THE GARDEN CENTRE.

Labels
Labels are important but often brief on the details of the plant. It does give you the name though so you can look up the care instructions in more detail. Avoid plants with labels that are old and faded, the plant probably is too.



Pests and disease
If the leaves of the plant are yellowing or there is limp growth then the plant might be diseased. Avoid these and also steer clear of plants with leaves that have been severely nibbled. The pots probably have vine weavel in them.



Value for money
Shop around; garden centres differ greatly in price for the same plants. I must stress that the quality of plants from most garden centres is really good. Occasionally one or two neglected ones slip through the net. I am not saying this is right but when a friend of mine sees a plant that is of poor quality and obviously too dishevelled to sell at full price, they take it off the shelves and remove the label. That’ll show ‘em! All centres should offer a guarantee for shrubs and perennials as long as you have looked after them as stated. They have to have faith in their product after all.



Water loss
Never buy a plant that has been denied water. The plants will be stressed and look sickly. They will take longer to establish, if at all!



Plant shape
Avoid plants that are growing irregularly with spindly growth, this indicates that they have been growing in cramped dark conditions.



Weedy pots
Pots full of weeds are also a sign of neglect. The weeds will starve the plant of vital nutrients and suffer as a consequence.



Check to roots
Tip the pot upside down tap the sides then gently remove the plant. Check to see that there are plenty of visible fibrous roots as well as some plump and juicy ones. There are two types of root problem that must be avoided. Do not pick plants that have thick and fibrous roots sticking out of the bottom of the pot into the soil on the display bed, or roots that are circling around the inside of the pot. Both are signs of a pot bound plant, which has been on display a while and probably been denied water at some stage. Pot bound plants will be difficult to establish.



Aftercare
When you have chosen a healthy specimen and brought it home, try to plant it as soon as possible. If you can’t do this at once then keep it well watered and in a sheltered position to prevent it from falling over and being damaged. When you do plant it, make sure it is well watered when you put it in the ground and keep an eye on it for a week or two.




Horticultural.


Tuesday, 22 May 2007

WINTER JASMINE




Hello Ian.


I have a neighbour’s wooden fence directly outside of my kitchen window. It is about four feet away from the house and gets quite a lot of sun. Have you any suggestions for a climber that can grow on the fence to cheer it up a bit in winter. Thanks, JJ by e-mail

Reply:



Winter jasmine (Jasminium nudiflorum) would be an ideal choice of climber for the fence. It is a shrub often found around older homes and has stood the test of time very well. The enclosed sunny, sheltered spot will protect the plant from adverse weather.

Mature Height/Spread: This deciduous viny shrub grows to 4 feet high when unsupported, and 7 feet wide. When trained on the fence it can grow to 15 feet. The slender, green stems stand out in the winter landscape. The flowers are unscented, yellow, 1 inch wide, and they appear in winter and early spring before the leaves unfold. I know of a specimen that is still in full flower from late October and shows no sign of giving up just yet



Winter jasmine can also be used as a good bank cover. It spreads by rooting where the stems touch the soil. It is also very attractive when planted above retaining walls, with the branches cascading over the side.



Problems: If plants become infested with spider mites, cut them to the ground after blooming and discard the infested plant material. Feed the crowns to stimulate new growth.




Horticultural.


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